Asparagus +

The Green Party

“Curation is crucial,” Deputy Mayor Jules Pipe CBE told us over breakfast in the private dining room of The May Fair Hotel London. He may have been referring to placemaking rather than place setting but the same rule applies. The Garrick Club afterwards takes place setting to a whole new level, easier done than said, when you’re surrounded by more Zoffany (and we’re not talking the wallpaper variety) than The National Gallery under a latticed plasterwork shallow domed ceiling rose. It’s all about the soft lighting. The Season has begun. Asparagus, that is. We’re going green. And white. And gold (trout roe). Starter: white asparagus with truffled Cacklebean egg tartlet and smoked eel. Main: cold Portland crab asparagus tart with split buttermilk and basil sauce. Pudding: asparagus, white chocolate ganache and burnt meringue. All washed down with Gosset Champagne of course.