Afternoon tea and champers are, by definition and nature respectively, not before noon. But this is sketch Mayfair, the restaurant cum bar cum gallery which invents the rules. Or abandons them altogether. Case is a case in point. Lower is the new upper. What’s not to love sipping like dowagers while untying ribboned cheesy toastie sliders. Bûche de Noël anyone? The zany interior has gone even more cuckoo now that the season to be very jolly is round the corner.