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Mei Ume Four Seasons Hotel 10 Trinity Square London +

A New Samuel Pepys

We haven’t been back to the Four Seasons Tower Bridge since Maud Rabin’s smart set – les belles personnes – were in town. That lunch was of course held in La Dame de Pic. But it’s always good to return to where Savage Gardens and Muscovy Street collide. A fascinating display of archaeology is on display before we enter That Rotunda. These are local finds: this hotel is built on the site of the Navy Office where diarist Samuel Pepys worked to pay the bills. An early piece is a 14th century decorative floor tile.

On this visit, we change direction from Madame de Pic’s, physically and gastronomically, turning left like on an aeroplane, to enter “May Ooo May” as it’s pronounced. This really is London’s most discreet restaurant. Well, turns out the Chinese Japanese fusion cuisine Mei Ume is worth the jaunt east. They serve the best chive sticked caviar topped prawns in Tower Bridge. “We’ve got to go to the Cointreau bar at Froufrou!” Maud later tempts us back to Paris.