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The House of Lavender’s Blue + Chef Francesco Bardotti

Polyphonic High Notes

Chelsea and South Kensington Houses London © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

A plane crossing the cobalt blue sky – spring is truly here – is a rare occurrence. A daily event at most. There are more joggers on the roads than cars. We go for a walk (self isolated of course) through the silent cherry blossom festooned streets of Mayfair. In St James’s Park a grey squirrel jumps out from a scramble of fellow squirrels, ducks and pigeons, and tamely climbs up our legs. Harrods’ famous shop window displays now feature rainbows inspired by Sir Peter Blake’s new drawing. The pop artist’s rainbow has become the symbol of the city at this time. On the way home, walking along the Thames riverside, a moored party boat devoid of partygoers incongruously blasts Donna Summer’s “I feel love”. A swan glides by. Such is London living during the current health crisis. More ‘homecation’ than ‘staycation’.

Nine Elms London © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Nine Elms Vauxhall London © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Nine Elms Battersea London © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Cheyne Walk Chelsea London © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Cherry Blossom Chelsea London © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Squirrel St James's Park London © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Squirrel and Two Pigeons St James's Park London © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Heron St James's Park London © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Duck St James's Park London © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Harrods London © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Chelsea Physic Garden London © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Tulips Chelsea Physic Garden London © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Cheyne Walk London © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Shepherd Market Restaurant Mayfair London © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Hide Restaurant Mayfair London © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Francesco Bardotti Canapes © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Earlier, we’d glimpsed through locked gates the botanically medicinal four acre wonder that is Chelsea Physic Garden, an attraction established in 1673 by the Worshipful Society of Apothecaries. The melancholic mood had lingered in the air. Our favourite afterwork haunt Shepherd Market, a huddle of intimate international restaurants from French to Turkish to even Polish-Mexican, had been eerily quiet. Spookily so. Passing Michelin starred restaurant Hide, we’d been reminded that its Chef Ollie Dabbous was always ahead of the curve. Even before the crisis, he launched ‘Hide at Home’ to deliver superlative cuisine chez vous. The all day service includes sommelier recommendations from Hedonism Wines.

Francesco Bardotti Standbychef Canape © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

We catchup (virtually) with Ollie who explains, “The only difference between home delivery fine dining and a regular experience in my restaurant is the tableware. We use exactly the same high quality ingredients and preparation.” Online catering companies are one of the few services to be flourishing in London at the moment. Italy born Switzerland trained Russia experienced England based Chef Francesco Bardotti is celebrating the 20th anniversary of his canapés delivery service StandByChef. Later, we give into temptation and order Francesco’s appetising appetisers (beetroot hummus; brie and quince; and mushroom truffle) to enjoy on our secluded terrace. “You don’t need to worry about anything!” he says reassuringly. If we can’t go fine dining, fine dining can come to us.

Francesco Bardotti Canape © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

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Restaurants

Kitty Fisher’s Mayfair + Shepherd Market London

Generations Come and Generations Go

kitty-fisher-lavenders-blue

Oh. Em. Gee. Whizz. After months of talking about going, we simply rock up on a random Wednesday night with a zest for life but no booking. Reservations at the tiny restaurant (just 40 lucky customers at any given time) are infamously hard to come by. We’re in luck. No tables free, but the bar along the window is ours. We’re perched on stools like Nighthawks. Perfect for spying on our usual Shepherd Market hangout Le Boudin Blanc. Skipping the light fantastic cocktails (Good Kitty, Bad Kitty but no Hello Kitty) we head straight for a bottle of Voignier Le Paradou 2015 (£30). Dry with a hint of honeycomb.

Kitty Fisher’s is all about plates. Courses are just so passé. The menu is concise: five small plates | five medium plates | four large plates | four sweet plates | one cheese plate. Yet there’s plenty to satisfy a pescatarian and carnivore. Whipped cod’s roe, bread and fennel butter (£7.50) is chef Tom Parry’s four fingered salute against mediocrity. A textural contrast of creaminess and crustiness. Taleggio, London honey, mustard and black truffle (£9) is a bitter sweet symphony of wood fire grill smokiness. The last of the savouries arrives. Burrata, beetroot and radicchio (£12.50) is a colourful collage of purple and white. Cambridge burnt cream (£7) isn’t an undergrad’s baking error but a Cointreau and cinnamon crème brulée smoothly nestling under a crackly golden lid. These plates aren’t for sharing. They’re far too good for that.

Named after a Georgian lady of the night, the restaurant is aptly boudoir-like with dark purple walls and red lamp shades and background jazz music. Dining extends underground, down the dogleg staircase, past the pumpkin stacked kitchen window. Trumpers accessorised loos are at the far end. Incidentally, we note that currency signs have vanished from fashionable menus as swiftly as pounds disappeared out of the wallets of Kitty Fisher’s gentlemen callers. Laterally, history repeats itself.