Twilight’s gone. While the city sleeps, we explore its streets like curious cats. The reflection of golden illumination from street lamps relieves the velvety darkness of the River Nervión. We prowl riverside along Paseo de Uribitart. Ascending Villarías Kalea, shop windows display goods but nobody’s browsing. On the far side of the river, in the mediaeval Casco Viejo, the scent of bread escapes from bakeries. The bells of the Cathedral of Santiago don’t peal. We slink past the Dog’s Fountain on Txakur Kalea. A lone jogger runs by. Dawn’s begun.