Clayton’s Kitchen Restaurant + Georgian Bath Somerset

From The Circus to the Kitchen

There are few more glorious sights in southwest England that the approach by train to Bath. As the railway line gently curves round, the golden hue of Bath stone (incidentally Castle Ward in County Down is an example of the material being used in west Britain) against the sloping verdancy is breathtaking. On disembarked closer inspection, the city reveals itself through a gradual unpeeling of layers of beauty and intrigue. As Cyclops would say, there’s more to Bath than meets the eye.

Take the alleyway running off Terrace Walk between The Huntsman pub and Bridgwater House. It frames the three bay frontis of the 1720s home of quarry owner Radulphus Allen. Designed by another oligarch of Georgian Bath, John Wood the Elder, it’s a pristine example of the decorated Palladian style. Ralph Allen’s house is now occupied by the David Brain Partnership, aptly an architectural practice specialising in conservation. Another thrill of the alleyway is the rear elevation of Sally Lunn’s Eating House lit by early 18th century sash windows with heavy glazing bars.

John Wood the Elder’s own home on Queen Square is a showcase, especially the staircase hall with its peopled plasterwork. St Cecilia, Patron Saint of Music, silently serenades visitors on the ascent and descent. The secondary staircase is directly behind the main staircase hall. Newel posts dropping below the stair and three balusters per tread are typical of the era. Full entablature cornices finish off raised and fielded panelling in all the principal rooms. Despite dying aged 50, the architect has left an indelible mark on the cityscape.

The Palladian precision of the formal south elevation coupled with the boutique shop lined inner sanctum of Pulteney Bridge arching over the River Avon is a familiar tourist sight. Its north elevation has a charm derived from irregular jettied projections – a picturesque jumble that would tempt Canaletto to get out his paintbrushes. Pulteney Bridge was designed by Robert Adam and completed in 1774.

John Strachan is lesser known than the Woods or the Adams. His Beauford Square, erected in 1727 to 1736, is more baroque than Palladian. It was developed by John Hobbs, a Bristol sailmaker and timber merchant. Distinctive red pantile roofs contrast in colour and texture with the Bath stone walls. Several of the townhouses facing the central green were later enlarged from two and a half to three storeys.

Water is everywhere in Bath. The dual aspect late 18th century Pump Room designed by Thomas Baldwin and finished by John Palner is quite the spot for afternoon liquid refreshment. Its north facing windows look out towards the Perpendicular Gothic Bath Abbey; its south, down a storey to the Roman Baths. St Cecilia would approve: a pianist and two violinists play sonatas as guests in the Pump Room polish off sparkling water from the Mendip Hills.

Street names are always fascinating in historic cities. What are the origins of Gay Street, Gracious Court, Milk Street, Quiet Street, Saw Close, Swallow Street, Trim Street? There is no Queer Street in Bath: this place is affluent. The Circus is self explanatory: three identical curved segments of 11 terraced houses each built between 1754 and 1769 to the design of John Wood the Elder and completed by his son John Wood the Younger. Why use one order when you can employ three. The columnar front and side elevations are thrust skyward by lavish paired columns – Roman Doric (entrance floor); Ionic (drawing room floor); and Corinthian (nursery floor).

A frieze supporting the acorn dotted cornice features lyres and Irish harps. The influence of Inigo Jones’ Banqueting House of Whitehall Palace London dating from 1638 is apparent in the design. The Woods’ ability to synthesise precedent and recompose it elevated their work above all peers. Cills have been lifted back up to their original position: the Victorians liked to enlarge windows by lowering them by a row of panes. Originally the urban space enclosed by The Circus was paved with setts. A circular green filled with trees dates from the Picturesque period of the late 18th century.

Beau Nash is an antiques shop on Brock Street which links The Circus to The Royal Crescent. The houses on the opposite side of the street have porches designed to accommodate sedan chairs. Suitably for a shop named after a bon viveur, dealers Ronald Pringle and Cynthia Wihardja have compiled a restaurant guide to Bath. Their verdict on Clayton’s Kitchen is, “The best value for money in Bath. Rob is a Michelin star Chef who set up his own restaurant. Lovely presentation and generous portions. Superb service. We love this place.”

Ever since Chef Patron Robert Clayton opened his eponymous restaurant high above George Street in 2012, it has become a fixture of fine dining in Bath. The 54 year old lives in the city with his wife Sara, daughters Imogen and Liberty, and Weimaraner Myrtle. He was one of the youngest chefs ever to win a Michelin star while aged 25 he headed up the kitchen of Huntsrete House Hotel just outside Bath. There are two adjoining dining rooms, simply decorated with natural materials. Duck egg blue reigns supreme. Seating spills out to the side onto Miles’s Buildings, a laneway leading up to the rear of the southeast segment of The Circus. Dishes radiate uncomplicated perfection drawing on Mediterranean and current French cuisine for inspiration.

Julia Kent wrote in House and Garden magazine, “Having escaped the worst excesses of modern planners’ dreams for redevelopment, Bath remains largely and evocatively a Georgian city. True, some latter day horrors have been allowed to mar the once harmonious skyline but, even so, you can still wander round the city and absorb the spirit and architectural beauty of the 18th century. Perhaps because Bath has a comparatively large local population of discerning diners out, the city boasts numerous good restaurants, not geared solely to tourism, some of which are of very high standing indeed.” That was May 1987. Not much has changed in a good way.

Bath was built to be a resort of pleasure. The Romans got it. The Georgians got it. The Caroleans are getting it.