Sword Fight
Fun and games at The Cally. Afternoon tea has never been this exciting. Or dangerous. Table for two vegetarians in The Court – a covered over former courtyard of this gargantuan temple of Edwardian hospitality interior designed by Fox Linton. Drawings by John More Dick Peddie and George Washington Browne, the original architects of the red sandstone building, line the bathroom walls in place of the usual cartoons. There are seasonal twists and tales to this festive version of the 7th Duchess of Bedford’s favourite meal from a Santa Claus’ belt to wish list letters all in icing.
The full works. Lapsang Souchong smoked Chinese Tea, Fujian Province. Curried chickpeas, mango chutney, carrot slaw, spinach. Nut roast sausage roll, spiced apple. Sweet potato fritter, roasted red cabbage, maple and mustard. Vegan cheese, pear and candied pecan quiche. Vegan chicken, chipotle mayo, pickled cucumber, avo. Vegan club sandwich. Plain and double chocolate and orange scones, three fruit marmalade. Chestnuts Roasting: chestnut, blackcurrant and whisky, pâté de fruit. Holly Jolly: winter spiced butterscotch, treacle travel cake. It’s Cold Outside: coffee, hazelnut financier and dark chocolate tart. Jingle Bell Rock: tonka bean, green apple confit, Speculoos cheesecake. Merry and Bright: yuzu ganache, black sesame, praline macaron. Mistletoe: kirsch mousse, sour cherry compôte, flourless chocolate sponge.
So far so genteel. Then the restaurant manager strides over to our table and declares, “You look game! Fancy taking part in our art of sabrage?” To mere mortals that’s slicing off the top of a chilled bottle of Laurent-Perrier La Cuvée Brut with a full length ceremonial sword. “We’re one of the very few establishments left in Scotland licenced to do this,” she comfortingly adds. Holding the bottle at a 35 degree angle as instructed: sliding the sword down the bottle towards the top first time round; sliding it a second time; then sliding it down a final time and keeping going. Hey presto … slice! The cork and glass rim ricochet across the floor. “Perfect!” admires the restaurant manager turned martial art instructor. A swashbuckingly useful addition to the arsenal of party tricks. Celebratory glasses of Laurent-Perrier are poured.
