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Architects Architecture

Margate Winter Gardens + Fort Green Margate Kent

A Tale of One Town

Our dear friend Min Hogg, Founding Editor of The World of Interiors, invented the phrase “shabby chic”. Her flat on Brompton Square epitomised the look. She told us, “’Chic’ is simply style used with an élan that has a social or intellectual overtone.” What about ‘shabby’? “Apart from its obvious aesthetic appeal, shabbiness is the only defence and bastion against ostentation and misspent money. For architecture and interiors to have arrived at a shabby state usually implies that the things were of good quality and built to last back in their heyday. It doesn’t matter a fig if they are scuffed, worn, or out of fashion. It’s the traces of the haphazardness of living that bring things to life and give them reality, and reality is what shabby chic is all about!”

If there’s a town that sums up shabby chic, it’s Margate. Now that we are all working from home, experiencing the return of cottage industries, Margate will likely become more gentrified with an influx of Londoners wanting rooms with views – less shabbiness more chicness. Not necessarily a good thing – there’s a lot of charm in the resort’s peeling paint and overgrown hedgerows. And nowhere more so than the Winter Gardens above Fort Lower Promenade. The Winter Gardens are a bit bonkers, like Min (if in doubt check out Ms Hogg’s mischievous after hours appearance in Rupert Everett’s autobiography!). The Listers praise the Winter Gardens as “an example of a rare seaside entertainment building type. Its form, with a semicircular amphitheatre is unique. It is the only known example of a winter garden constructed within a chalk cliff.”

Built in 1911 to the design of the Borough Surveyor of Margate, Ernest Borg, the roughly shell shaped amphitheatre (later roofed over) is symmetrically hugged on either side by the grassy slopes of Fort Green and overlooked by Fort Crescent and Fort Paragon. The style is Mykonos-on-Sea. Variety and vaudeville, Dame Nellie Melba and Anna Pavlova, the Winter Gardens have had them all. Holidaying in Margate? It was the best of times, then things got even better. It was our season of sunshine, it was our summer of hope. Although Marilynne Robinson does warn in The Death of Adam, “At best, our understanding of any historical moment is significantly wrong, and this should come as no surprise, since we have little grasp of any present moment. The present is elusive for the same reasons as is the past.”

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Architecture People Restaurants Town Houses

Jean-Christophe Novelli + Home House London

London’s Most Exclusive Restaurant

1 Jean-Christophe Novelli & Stuart Blakley @ Home House © lvbmag.com

Ding dong. It’s Lavender’s Blue’s Christmas lunch. Where to, where to? Our second stately home, of course. Homely Home House. Anthony Blunt’s former home; raffish types clearly in the past. Home is where the heart is and the heart of Home House is the hearty Robert Adam Dining Room. Grisailled and scaglioled to the nines (and that’s just the room), domestic god and sensation in the kitchen Jean-Christophe Novelli is our chef and host. Table for two for noon, thank you. That all important staff-to-customer ratio is pretty high due to the maître d’, Prosecco sommelier, Limestone Coast Chardonnay 2013 sommelier and Scottish Natural Sparkling Water waiter all standing to attention.

2 Jean-Christophe Novelli & Stuart Blakley @ Home House © lvbmag.com

“I miss the urgency of a restaurant,” says Jean. “And there’s nothing quite like the immediacy of a pop-up!” These days he’s busy running his cookery school and chef’s academy in Herts. That is, when he’s not creating a bespoke fine dining experience for us amidst ovaloid apses, ellipses and lunettes. Dial is its name, top of its game, a play on a well known supermarket’s fame. A fandango in fondue, perhaps?

3 Jean-Christophe Novelli & Stuart Blakley @ Home House © lvbmag.com

4 Jean-Christophe Novelli & Stuart Blakley @ Home House © lvbmag.com

5 Jean-Christophe Novelli & Stuart Blakley @ Home House © lvbmag.com

First up is a verrine of avocado mousse and lobster tail with Melba toast. Divine. Dame M would approve. Next, seared scallops with chestnut velouté, maple syrup, apple and spinach. Heavenly. In more-or-less pescatarian form, we skip the venison steak with red cabbage, roast parsnip, sautéed sprouts and chestnuts sweetened by Moser Roth dark chocolate sauce. Straight to Black Forest stollen butter pudding. Devilish.

6 Jean-Christophe Novelli & Stuart Blakley @ Home House © lvbmag.com

Jean was given free rein with the menu. “Quality of ingredients, freshness, simplicity,” Jean says. “These are all important. But so is – how do you say it? L’huile de coude. Ah – oil in the elbow!” He’s off to Dublin next week. “Probably one of the few places I am greeted by crowds at the airport. I love it! I get the best reception there. I’ll be on the Late Lunch Live television programme.” So much did our early Christmas lunch cost? The ingredients, thanks to some judicious shopping by our Michelin starred chef at the well known supermarket, £17.90. And we even forgot to mention the coffee and mince pies. The experience? Priceless. Merrily on high.

7 Jean-Christophe Novelli & Stuart Blakley @ Home House © lvbmag.com