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Michael Manser Associates + Hilton Hotel Heathrow London

So Glad

If Ada Louise Huxtable said you’re good, you’re good. She was the American queen of architectural criticism (died in 2013). The visual counterpart to her literary excellence was Deborah Turbeville the American monarch of the camera (died in 2013). United States creative royalty. “The high priest of High Tech” is how she described Norman Foster (still going strong aged 90) in On Architecture, 2008. The first architecture critic of The New York Times (reigned supreme from 1963 to 1981), Ada was blessed with good looks and a way with words: “The English architect Norman Foster is a master of fine tuned exquisitely honed minimal technology. In his choice of materials and structure he uses, with remarkable eloquence, a fastidious aesthetic that derives from engineering but quietly makes it clear to the viewer (as with the 1991 exhibition rooms of the Royal Academy of Arts in London) that a series of highly intelligent choices has been made.”

Hilton Hotel Heathrow looks like it was designed by Norman Foster. It wasn’t. It’s unknown if Ada critiqued Michael Manser Associates but if she had it may well have been along the lines that they are the high priest acolytes of High Tech. Completed in 1990, the hotel (formerly known as the Sterling) gets a mention in Flying in the Face of Mediocrity, an article scribed by Alan Powers for the 28 February 1991 edition of Country Life. He applauds how the transparency of High Tech architecture recaptures the romance of travel. The hotel gets a mostly positive reception:

“The question of the traveller’s psychology in relation to buildings comes into play with the recently completed Sterling Hotel by Michael Manser Associates, linked to Terminal 4 at Heathrow. The architectural and planning record of Heathrow is not distinguished, and the hotel occupies an awkward pocket of land in the crook of a spur road. Its dazzling whiteness is impressive, and one immediately reads the skewed plan, with a full height atrium between two banks of hotel rooms. The detailing is High Tech rather than the Miesian style associated with this firm. Interesting effects of shadow and light are achieved with the cutaway end façades, but the whiteness is too insistent, and the way the skew is carried through the plan too diagrammatic and unrelieved. The result is that the sitting spaces feel overexposed in a great hotel ‘landschaft’, and one of the major functions of such a building – to calm and reassure the stopover traveller and provide a human scale in relation to journeys of thousands of miles – seems to be lost.”

Over to the architects, “The requirement was for a four star four hundred bedroom hotel on the south side of Heathrow Airport adjacent to Terminal 4. Our client specifically wanted a landmark building on a tight budget. A very clear spatial and organisational brief from the client allowed us to produce an extremely efficient plan where two blocks of bedrooms flanked a large atrium within which were all the public areas. The hotel was designed, built and opened in 27 months, including the planning process. The hotel was the first in the UK planned around a central atrium, was the first to use cement particle board for partitioning and developed an entirely bespoke but economic external cladding system. The huge atrium, with extensive views east and west creates a dramatic effect. The arrival at the hotel certainly sparks a level of theatre and drama not normally seen at airport hotels.”

Moving on, central lounge as airport hangar, a spectacular solid plane to glass expanse ratio, making a virtue out of fire escapes as elegant as Art deco diving pool spiral staircases, the Heathrow Hilton Hotel is a bold statement aging well. That’s the thing about architecture ahead of its time: four decades later it looks contemporary. There’s been a recent atrium refurb by Hirsch Bedner Associates. Associate Director and project lead Matteo Pace states, “All too often airport hotels lack character and imagination, so we were thrilled that Hilton were open to us being creative, allowing us to design a welcoming space that is connected to nature. Located at one of Europe’s busiest airports, the public spaces at the Hilton need to cater to all guests. Be it leisure or corporate visitors, we wanted to create somewhere that they can really enjoy and that enhances their travel experience through inspiring, thoughtful design.” A sculptured chandelier radiating over reception and wooden walls echoing “the undulating British landscapes” are resultant highlights.

What’s it like to stay in these days? Well there’s a catwalk straight from the hotel to Terminal 4 Departures. A Planet Burger (plant based patty, tomato chutney, gem lettuce, smoked Applewood, red onion, pickles, potato bun, plant mayo, fries) in the atrium restaurant is a good distraction from onward destinations. As is the gaggle of gorgeous Emirates airhostesses gathering in reception. The diamond shaped plan means the atrium is sandwiched between two cliffs of sleeping accommodation. A backlit pixelated map of Europe takes the place of meaningless art in each guest room. Crabtree and Evelyn toiletries encircle a Porcelanosa teardrop basin in the en suite bathrooms. A triangular wedge of precious green and blue outdoor space is attached to the rear of the hotel offering fresh produce. Ada Louise Huxtable would approve: to her sustainability was always more than just design.

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Art Design Hotels Luxury People

The Rembrandt Hotel Knightsbridge London + Ade Bakare Fashion Show

Whatever Happens

We love surprises. Who would have guessed Mexican and Japanese cuisine fuse so well? Not us, till after six hours of midweek lunching on ajo chipotle edamame and seabass ceviche in Los Mochis on Liverpool Street. Later, we will ask the bemused waiter at Annabel’s, “Where’s the rooftop terrace?” He will respond with glee, “You’re in it!” and immediately will press a button to slide back the ceiling, revealing a cloudy sky. Next, we’re filled with excitement when Queen Camilla arrives at Ascot but perhaps it shouldn’t be that big a surprise as she is handing out The King George VI and Elizabeth Stakes £668,400 prize to French favourite Mickael Barzalona riding Calandagan. It’s the 75th running of the race. Helicopter on standby of course.

We’re not at all surprised when Mary Martin receives her Damehood. Long overdue. On a hot Saturday evening we find ourselves in the front row of Ade Bakare’s summer show as Mary’s guests. It’s the Eighth Edition. We’re very Knightsbridge (think Giovanni or The Franklin) although The Rembrandt Hotel is new territory to us. Mary and Brenda Emmanus OBE are holding court in the lounge. That red sports car of Mary’s sure is raving up the kilometrage. The Queen of Fashion needs a helicopter! Ade speaks to the glamorous crowd: “I look forward to you wearing my latest collections. And that includes the exquisite perfume line that is available too. The T shirts have been inspired by African flowers. The jumpsuits come in vibrant pinks, blues and yellows.” It’s an eclectic show from casualwear, eyewear and millinery creations to the grand finale bridalwear. To quote Elizabeth Bowen in Bowen’s Court, 1942, “Like all stories told with gusto, it has its variations … I will give the version that most appeals to me.” In modern parlance, this is our authentic best selves’ truth. As always, we’re channelling our inner Deborah Turbeville.

The eponymous designer launched Ade Bakare Couture in 1991 with the assistance of a loan from the Prince of Wales Youth Business Trust and has grown it to a notable name in the global fashion industry. He had just majored in Salford University College Manchester following a history and education degree from the University of Lagos. The following year the fashion designer produced his first of many prêt-à-porter collections. He opened a high end boutique in Lagos in 2006. Ade was born in Britain to Nigerian parents: these two worlds combine in his clothing which fuses the elegance of British tailoring with the vibrancy of Yoruba culture.

London’s fashion scene is renowned for its eccentricity and inclusivity but in the past black designers have often had to carve their own careers. Then in 2011 along came Africa Fashion Week London and everything changed. Led by Queen Ronke Ademiluyi-Ogunwusi, this event promotes and celebrates black fashion excellence. Ade Bakare Couture makes frequent appearances on the annual catwalk. Headlining fashion artist Dame Mary Martin says, “Africa Fashion Week London is a fantastic launchpad for new collections and has become the go to event of the season. I’ve launched many of my collections at the show from The Hidden Queens to The Return.” As for Mary’s next collection, she shares, “It will be a surprise. A huge surprise!” Whatever it is, we know Dame Mary Martin will always obey Luann Countess de Lesseps advice, “Don’t be uncool. Be cool.”

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Art Fashion People

Mary Martin London + The Collections

The Fashion Years

“We have seen that a Fashion utterance involves at least two systems of information: a specifically linguistic system, which is a language (such as French or English) and a ‘vestimentary’ system, according to which the garment signifies the world or Fashion. These two systems are not separate: the vestimentary system seems to be taken over by the linguistic system.” So wrote our favourite philosopher Roland Barthes in his 1967 revelation The Fashion System.

It’s like the arrival of the Queen of Sheba with the beauty of Queen Esther and the wealth of King Solomon. “Don’t you know that a man being rich is like a girl being pretty? You wouldn’t marry a girl just because she’s pretty, but my goodness, doesn’t it help?” she cries, channelling her inner Marilyn Monroe as Lorelei Lee in Some Like It Hot. Applying a blonde wig and beauty spot before donning a Mary Martin London little black number with extended faux fur later, she is soon standing over air vents and blowing kisses to admiring onlookers. Some like it very hot! She starts singing, “Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend.” Super supermodel Katie Ice has entered the building.

Musical model Funmi Olagunju literally rocks up strumming her guitar. Lavender coloured clothes clad, she sings, “I only wanted to see you, laughing in the purple rain, purple rain purple rain…” Funmi shares, “Mary’s clothes are so crazy! They’re elegant and theatrical. They’re regal. She thinks outside the box!” Beautiful Natasha Lloyd bursts across our vision in a radiance of red. Crimson is the new black. She next models  the Queen of Africa dress. Over to Mary, “I’d just won African Fashion Designer of the Year and I felt like I was the Queen of Africa! The colourway in this dress represents brown for earth, green for grass and yellow for the sun.”

While getting ready, model Sienna Kinley advises on confidence, “You forget who you are. You go into fear mode. The mindset is to remind yourself who you are. Who you are is everything you need to be in this life. Everything you’ve been given is enough for you in this world. Sometimes you can forget that’s enough. Confidence is recognising who you are: you are a perfect being. All the gifts and talent you have are enough.” Makeup artist Sofia Mahmood adds, “Be creative. You need great patience to be a makeup artist. Patience with creativity.”

This Old Street London warehouse is rocking with a carnival atmosphere and a festival of talent. All of us are in front and to the side and behind the cameras as filming continues… yes, that film. In the midst of the mayhem and madness and fashion miscellanea, Mary emerges, as ever a human whirlwind of orders and changes and directions and laughter. “I don’t like ordinary,” she understates. Natasha reappears modelling The Hidden Queens Collection dress with its socially distancing crinoline.

The dresses of The Collections flow onto the film set amidst falling roses and oversized poppies. World class ballerina Omozefe (“just call me ‘Sue’”) performs pirouettes and shows photograph of herself with Margot Fontaine. “It was her last performance ever at the Royal Opera House! I have met Rudolf Nureyev twice. I love dancing to The Nutcracker, Carmen and of course Swan Lake.” Soon Sue is teaching model Hassan Reese some Pilates moves. “Pilates is similar to ballet – it’s about micro movements stretching muscles. You can’t get up on point unless your core being is very strong.”

Cleopatra, brought to life by model Natasha Lloyd, struts her stuff. Three times Taekwondo World Champion Carol Hudson, modelling herbaceous headgear, says with some understatement, “Mary’s clothes aren’t for the fainthearted!” Photographer Monika Schaibel agrees, “Mary has a vision and is always true to her vision. Amazing eye to detail. Her fashion shows are pure theatre – they’re art happenings.” Kiki Busari, modelling The Red Dress, adds, “I love the opulence. These dresses take you to a fantasy world. A world where you are empowered and strong.”

It’s like the creativity of King Jotham with the boldness of Queen Vashti and the power of King Xerxes. “Never try to explain your work,” once said our fav photographer of all time, Deborah Turbeville. So we won’t say we are a muse or the bridge between the bright lights or something else far more mesmeric and fantastic. Let the wrap party begin! To paraphrase Marilyn Monroe, we all just want to be wonderful. “Fashion dissolves the myth of innocent signifies,” ends Roland Barthes, “at the very moment it produces them.” Super supermodel Katie Ice has left the building.