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Architecture Country Houses People

Seskinore House + Forest Seskinore Tyrone

Negative Volume

The name Seskinore is derived from the Irish Gaelic seisceann mhór which means big marsh or bog. Tracing its roots back to the early 17th century, the population is still just a few hundred. To the north of the village is Seskinore Forest. Only remnants of an Ulster Plantation country estate can be traced: cast iron gates minus a gatelodge and outbuildings without a country house. Seskinore House was demolished in 1952 when the Ministry of Agriculture took over the 47 hectare estate. Up until 1941 it had been the seat of the Anglo Welsh Perry family and then through marriage the Anglo Scots McClintock family. Seskinore House was used by American soldiers during World War II.

An advertisement appeared in the Belfast Newsletter on 10 July 1940, “For sale by private treaty by the executor of Captain Wilfred Joynson-Wreford, deceased. Seskinore, County Tyrone. Beautiful country residence with about 120 acres land, portion of which is well wooded with valuable timber. The residence has modern conveniences and contains large entrance hall, inner hall, drawing room, dining room, library, smoke room, 11 bedrooms, servants’ apartments, kitchen, sculleries, pantries etc., six WCs, bathrooms. The out offices are most extensive, forming a large inner and outer yard. There are five cottages on the lands. The entire buildings are in splendid condition. The residence is situated in a good district, amidst beautiful surroundings, with nicely laid out grounds and gardens; and the entire property is held free of rent forever. Further cottages in the village of Seskinore can be included in sale, if so desired. Further particulars from McCoy Solicitors, Omagh, County Tyone.” There were no private takers.

A Garden of Remembrance lies deep in the forest. It marks the resting place of the last people to live in Seskinore House: Amelia “Leila” née Eccles-McClintock Joynson-Wreford (1898 to 1937) and Wilfred “Tony” Joynson-Wreford (1896 to 1940). Leila died of meningitis aged 38 and her husband Tony died three years later of tuberculosis aged 44. Their gravestones are surrounded by a colourful carpet of autumnal leaves. A third gravestone is of Tony’s son Patrick Anthony Joynson-Wreford (1928 to 2015). Tony was married three times – Patrick was the child with his second wife Olive née Trainor. Leila and Tony had one child: Xenia.

On 6 October 2005, Jonathan Rainey reported in the Tyrone Constitution, “The people of Seskinore recently welcomed back a long lost member of one of the village’s most respected families – over 65 years after she vanished from village life. Mrs Xenia Lewis, aged 70, from Townsville in Australia made an emotional return to Seskinore to try to answer some of the any questions that surround her childhood. Within the last year, Xenia has discovered that she is the granddaughter of Colonel John Knox McClintock, who contributed much to the life of Seskinore during his lifetime, including building the local primary school, before his death in 1936.”

“She has also discovered that she spent much of her early childhood in the village, even though today she has no memory of that time,” Jonathan records. “Both of Xenia’s parents died when she was still a young girl, leaving her in the care of an English guardian, who moved her to London, and then Sussex. As she got older, her guardian never revealed anything about her family or her life, in Seskinore. And in another twist to an already fascinating story Xenia has also met the half brother she never knew existed while she has been uncovering the truth about her past.” Xenia and Patrick restored the neglected Garden of Remembrance during her visit.

He concludes, “During a party organised in her honour at McClintock Primary School, Xenia told the assembled villagers, ‘It’s been a very emotional journey, but everyone has made me feel welcome, and I feel like I’ve come home. I think my father was really devastated when my mother died. According to an obituary published in the Tyrone Constitution, and from what numerous people have told me in Seskinore, my father used to go down to the Garden of Remembrance in the McClintock estate, where my mother is buried, at 6pm every single night with my mother’s dog, no matter what.’”

Seskinore House was rebuilt in 1862 to the design of the illustrious Sir Charles Lanyon. A formal symmetrical east facing façade had two bays on either side of a pedimented breakfront with three narrow roundhead windows above a balustraded Ionic portico – its outside columns coupled. Wide rustication in the form of stretched quoins terminated each end of the elevation. The side elevations had full height canted bay windows. The main block was two storeys with lower two storey ancillary wings to the west and north. Horizontal glazing bars creating four panelled windows were a popular fad of the second half of the 19th century and appeared in residences across Ulster including Seskinore House.

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Architects Architecture Country Houses People Restaurants

The McCauslands + Drenagh Limavady Londonderry

Jericho’s Retina

“The house looks lovely in the sun: we want you to come and visit us! The gardens are open seven days a week and you can do lots of walks. There are walks from five minutes to 45 minutes. We have a Walled Garden, an Italian Garden, an Arboretum and lots of fun stuff. It’s poignant for me because having almost lost everything I now want to make a legacy for my children. Sometimes it is overwhelming because when I look at other gardens that are successful and how well they do it, I look at the number of staff they have and I think – it’s just Daniel and me! That’s it at the moment. When you’re in the house and you see all these 12 generations of McCauslands looking down at you, you can’t help but feel they’re watching you. The café and shop are the first building work on the estate in a century.” So says owner Conolly McCausland.

Welcome to Drenagh, one of the three Sir Charles Lanyon designed statement country houses of Ulster. The other two are Ballywalter Park in County Down and Dundarave in County Antrim. In 2014 two of the three were for sale. Dundarave and its 485 hectare estate were sold through Savills to an investor company for around £10 million. Drenagh and its 400 hectare estate went on the market through Simon O’Brien for the same price. It was the end of a centuries’ long era for the McCausland family: the main lender Leeds Clydesdale Bank had withdrawn its support for Drenagh and the associated farm. But the following year, Conolly raised £5 million with the sale of land which more than covered the reported bank debts of £3.2 million. Drenagh was taken off the market.

The Honourable Dorinda Lady Dunleath and Sir Charles Brett and their cohorts spent much of the second half of the 20th century Listing the heritage of Ulster. Walter Girvan compiled the unusually titled North Derry (the accepted norm is Derry City in County Londonderry) List in 1972 to 1974. It’s quite the entry and worth quoting in its entirety for fullness. So here goes. “Drenagh House stands in a commanding position in the centre of well wooded parkland to the east of Limavady. The family home of the McCauslands, it was originally called Fruithill; as at Dundarave near Bushmills, it seems to have assumed a new name with its final rebuilding in the late 1830s. Its predecessor appeared to date from the 1730s; the Ordnance Survey comments that it was ‘an old fashioned looking house, which looks extremely well when seen partly through the trees by which it is surrounded’. It probably was similar to Streeve House and, in spite of extensions, was already by the 1820s thought to be too small, so John Hargrave was asked to produce drawings for an entirely new house. Elevations and plans survive and show a chaste neo Greek design, which bears a resemblance to Seaforde House, County Down. Hargrave was not given the job and there the matter rested until Charles Lanyon arrived in County Antrim as County Surveyor in 1836. The present building appears to be Lanyon’s very first commission for a country seat of major proportions, and it is interesting to watch his progress from the relatively restrained neoclassicism of Drenagh, through the greater flamboyance of Laurel Hill in Coleraine of 1843, to the sumptuous Italianate of Dundarave in 1847. In retrospect, the superb assurance of Dundarave is lacking in the earlier building, although there are typical Lanyon touches.”

Born in Cork in the 1780s, John Hargrave’s office was on Talbot Street in Dublin. He was especially active in the northwest. One of Omagh in County Tyrone’s most prominent landmarks, the Courthouse, is by his hand. One of Omagh’s most obscure buildings is another of his designs, the Prison Governor’s House. He brings the former’s strong string courses and the latter’s polygonal geometry to his design for Drenagh. The house that never was has a long five bay two storey “Elevation of Principal Front” with tripartite windows at either end of the ground floor. The entrance door is also treated in tripartite form with flanking sidelights. Clerestory windows below the cornice light an attic floor. At first it’s hard to reconcile this front with “Elevation towards the Rear” as the latter is narrower, higher with an exposed raised basement, and treated differently with a canted bay window either side of the central three bays. Column and pilaster free, John proves himself to be master of astylar architecture.

Why the McCauslands dropped John Hargrave’s proposal is lost in the mists of time. Sir Charles Lanyon’s executed main block is more regular in footprint, a deeper and narrower rectangle. It is a mirror image of John’s: the ancillary wing stretches to the left, not the right, of the main entrance door. The basement is not externally visible. Both designs have two canted bay windows on the elevation facing away from the entrance although the built version are much shallower.

Back to William Girvan, “The house, of two stories, is of finely dressed sandstone. As at Dundarave, each of the main facades is treated differently. The entrance front is five bays wide, the central bay recessed in the usual Lanyon way. While the lower windows are plain, the upper have shallow surrounds, curving into the string course which acts as a sill. The hipped roof is concealed behind a balustrade, and weight is given to the central bay for blocking out the balusters. A hexastyle portico of unfluted Ionic columns, surmounted by a balustrade, enclose the entrance door, which has a semicircular fanlight and sidelights, an idea reused at Laurel Hill and Dundarave. The double string course between storeys units each façade. The southwest front is more awkward – six bays long; the central two bays step forward and are framed by shallow giant pilasters; the surmounting pediment is not strong enough to dominate. The northwest front is managed better. Canted bay windows rise through the two storeys and frame a French window which has a mock segmental fanlight. A lower block of offices extends north eastwards.”

“The interior plan is similar to both Ballywalter Park and Dundarave. An entrance hall with a shallow dome set on Soanesque pendentives opens into a central hall from which all the reception rooms lead. More intimate in scale than its successors, it has a screen of richly decorated Corinthian columns. For ceiling and overdoor and ornaments Lanyon used classical mouldings. A shallow coloured glass dome lights the room. The effect is Roman in its weightiness. The stair, rising between one of the columned screens, divides at the half landing; it has particularly fine cast iron balusters, clad in ivy tendrils. The stairwell ceiling is richly moulded with a scalloped design, bordering an acanthus roundel. Each of the reception rooms is treated differently; the Drawing Room ceiling is the most splendid with an enriched gilded cornice, containing a device Lanyon used elsewhere in the house and at Bellarena – a continuous pipe, encircled by acanthus leaves; the rest is panelled, with a flower bedecked roundel. The Morning Room and Dining Room ceilings are simpler; a nice original Victorian wallpaper of tangled flowers still hangs in the Saloon. Each room has a lavish marble fireplace, all of different pattern and hue. The first floor bedroom passage has unusual and attractive plaster ribbed vaulting, rising from corbels; on the side opposite the stairwell, the pattern changes to a series of shallow domes.”

“The courtyard behind the house is entered by a shallow segmental archway; above is a pediment with clock inserted. The two storey stable courtyard lies beyond; a simple design of six wide coach arches, the centre two pedimented and stepping forward; the side wings, seven bays long have round headed fanlights over the doors. All is in dressed sandstone. Adjacent to it is a second court of rubblestone: this is probably the stable block of the older Fruithill.”

“The house is surrounded by lawns, enclosed by balustraded terraces. Beyond are well wooded shrubberies and a stately flight of steps leading to a massive balustraded vantage point, which looks over a dell, laid out formally with ponds; under it is a fountain exedra. The remains of the old house have been laid out as a walled garden. The northern gatelodge by Lanyon is an exceptionally refined three bay by three sandstone cottage with minuscule tetrastyle Ionic portico – a foretaste of the big house. It has a fine set of piers and gates. The southern lodge dates from 1830 and is a charming L shaped sandstone cottage with pretty paired Gothick lattice pane windows set in simple reveals. It is known as Logan’s Lodge.”

Taken for Granted, compiled by Alistair Coey and Richard Pierce in 1984 for a specialist audience, was described by its authors as “a celebration of 10 years of historic buildings conservation”. The entry for Drenagh confirms, “Charles Lanyon’s first large country house commission. Built in 1836 on the site of an earlier house dating from the 1730s. The house is neoclassical two storeys of finely detailed ashlar sandstone with three different main elevational treatments. A balustraded parapet conceals the roof. The interior is planned around a large central hall lit by a circular leaded light. Phase one: grant assistance of £263 given towards repairs to leadwork. Approximate cost of work: £640. Carried out in 1976. Contractor: Dickie and Hamilton, Coleraine. Phase two: grant assistance of £1,400 given towards repairs to chimneys, roofs, rainwater goods and stonework. Redecoration of remedial items. Approximate cost of work: £2,868. Carried out in 1978. Contractor: Dickie and Hamilton, Coleraine. Phase three: grant assistance of £250 given towards repairs to leadwork including clocktower. Approximate cost of work: £513. Carried out in 1980. Contractor: Dickie and Hamilton, Coleraine. Phase four: grant assistance of £680 given towards treatment of wood rot and subsequent reinstatement. Approximate cost of work: £1,363. Carried out in 1980. Phase five: grant assistance of £3,800 given towards repairs to leadwork. Treatment of extensive dry rot and repairs to internal plasterwork. Approximate cost of work: £7,615. Carried out in 1981. Contractor: William Douglas, Limavady. Timber treatment: Rentokil, Belfast.”

The footprint of the main block is deeper than in it is wide. Perpendicular to the five bay southeast facing entrance front, the southwest front is a generously spaced six bays. An even number is unusual: an odd number of bays allowing for a central feature is conventional in classical architecture. Sir Charles Lanyon came to own it though: Ballywalter Park has a six bay garden front (excluding the wings) and Dundarave has a six bay entrance front. The Entrance Hall of Drenagh leads into a central Corinthian columned Hall naturally illuminated by a circular rooflight. The triple flight staircase rises to one side of the Hall. The architect was a master of the flow: the main reception rooms – Billiard Room, Morning Room, Library, Drawing Room, Salon and Dining Room (going anticlockwise) – all open off the Hall.

On the first floor, a continuous bedroom corridor circulates around the void over the circular rooflight. Still going anticlockwise, Work Room, Blue Room, Balcony Room, South Room, Green Room, Rose Room, Orange Room, Monroe Room and Bow Room all have glorious views across the gardens and parkland. The footprint of the wing, which is formed around a courtyard and stretches towards the stable block, is as large as the footprint of the main block. The storey heights of the wing are much lower as befits its status. Drenagh is built on a grand scale: the Drawing Room measures 11 metres into the bay window by 6.6 metres wide. The Orange Room above it measures 6.7 metres by 6.6 metres. To put that in context, at 44.22 square metres the Orange Room is just shy of the recommended size of a one bed flat in the 2021 London Plan which is 50 square metres.

There are lots of other residential properties on the estate. Bothy Flat, Clock Flat, Laundry Flat and Upper Garden Flat are in the wing. Forester’s Cottage, Garden Cottage, Logan Cottage, Kitty’s Cottage, The Pheasantry, Shell Hill Cottage, Streeve Hill and Yard House are standalone buildings. Killane Lodge is a gatelodge: the main house in miniature. So the farmland continues to be farmed and the estate dwellings tenanted.

Conolly launched Drenagh as a wedding venue in 2012. A ceremony for up to 60 guests can be held in the house or a marquee in the Walled Garden for a maximum of 200 people. He says, “The romantic Moon Garden and the elegant Morning Room are inspirational places for couples to tie the knot. We can accommodate 16 overnight guests in the main house and 12 in the wing. Drenagh can also be rented and is proving popular, especially for American guests. Our housekeeper will look after arrangements.” Helicopter flights can be arranged to pick up guests arriving at City of Derry Airport and set them down on the lawn outside the house. Or a limousine can be despatched.

A lot has changed since 1991 when Conolly’s mother and stepfather took the first steps towards estate diversification by opening the house to large group tours and for bed and breakfast as part of the Hidden Ireland group. Back then the Italian Garden was a mass of bamboos. The remote northwest of Northern Ireland has some catching up to do with the touristy east coast. There are no National Trust country houses nearby. The nearest country house, Bellarena, which was partially remodelled by Sir Charles Lanyon, remains unopen to the public. Drenagh fills the cultural void, flies the heritage flag, and provides fabulous quiche in The Orangery café inside the Walled Garden.

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Architects Architecture Country Houses People

Sion House + Emma Herdman + Herdman’s Mill + Sika by Niall Restaurant Sion Mills Tyrone

Marching

Rural County Tyrone isn’t the most obvious location to come across an overblown Tudorbethan mansion. This half timbered affair would look more at home in the Surrey Hills. A large scale forerunner to Stockbroker’s Tudor semi detached houses. The landscaped garden is an attempt to tame the wildness of this rainswept region. It’s not surprising to learn that the architect of Sion House was an Englishman. The original house which would be engulfed through rebuilding was a more typical country house of these parts. It was a mildly Italianate three bay wide by three bay deep two storey stone faced house built in 1846 to the design of the illustrious Sir Charles Lanyon (1813 to 1889). Less than four decades later, William Unsworth (1851 to 1912), a pupil of Sir Edwin Lutyens, drew up a replacement house to engulf its predecessor.

The Petersfield Hampshire based architect is best known for designing the first Shakespeare Memorial Theatre in Stratford-Upon-Avon which opened in 1879. No doubt that’s where he developed his penchant for all things half timbered. William was friendly with Sir Edwin Lutyens who also wasn’t immune to jettied projections and multi diamond paned windows. The architect just happened to be the son-in-law of the client James Herdman and brother-in-law of the celebrated Missionary of Morocco, Emma Herdman.

The Herdmans had arrived in the north of Ireland from Herdmanston in Ayrshire in the late 17th century, first settling in Glenavy, County Antrim. This Plantation family swiftly established itself as big time farmers before entering industry. In 1835, the Herdman brothers James, John and George upped sticks to the sticks, moving from Belfast to Seein in County Tyrone. Seein (derived from the Irish word for fairy fort Sían) would evolve into Sion. John Herdman had gone into partnership with brothers Andrew, Sinclair and Thomas Mulholland who owned York Street Linen Mill in Belfast. Andrew Mulholland (1791 to 1886) built Ballywalter Park in County Down, the pinnacle of Sir Charles Lanyon’s country house designing career. His eldest son John was created 1st Baron Dunleath of Ballywalter in 1892.

The Herdman brothers brought this experience in the following decades to the development of a new mill at Sion. Flax fields and waterpower were the double draw to this site which was leased from the Marquess of Abercorn. The extant wheat mill would be redeveloped. Not content with just building a flax spinning mill designed by the prolific Belfast architect William Henry Lynn (1829 to 1915) – who partnered with Sir Charles Lanyon and his son John – next to a weir designed by the English engineer Sir William Fairbairn, plus a country house, the Herdmans philanthropically added a model village. Soon there was a school, a shop, churches and a fishing club as well as workers’ cottages. William Unsworth also designed a gatehouse to frame the main driveway to Sion House. Eschewing the tradition of single storey gatelodges, he opted for a convincing Hansel and Gretel version of the three storey gatehouse of Stokesay Castle in Shropshire. In the 1850s the Derry City to Enniskillen railway line was completed, running between the grounds of Sion House and Sion Mill, and crossing the River Mourne over Camus Bridge.

And so the glory days began. For eight decades the new Sion House happily played host to generations of the Herdman family and their guests. Celia Ferguson née Herdman MBE is the last direct descendant. She lives in the village and founded the Sion Mills Buildings Preservation Trust in 1999. Celia reminisced in 2014, “Sion House was my grandfather’s home. I lived there after the Second World War. It was such a busy house! As well as my relatives and Welsh nanny, there was a cook and four or five parlour maids. A dairy maid, washer maid and four under gardeners came during the day. The head gardener lived in the gatelodge. It was very self sufficient. In fact the whole of Sion Mills was like that. When we needed a plumber, he came from the mill.”

“The Italianate gardens were designed in 1909 by Inigo Triggs of Hampshire. Inigo was in partnership with William Unsworth and a friend of Gertrude Jekyll. I was asked to go along to Glenmakieran in Cultra, County Down, which I’m quite sure is another Unsworth house. In 1955 a fire threatened to destroy Sion House. Such a huge house. Nevertheless my grandfather rebuilt all 50 rooms exactly as they were before. I remember the oak panelling in the dining room and line wall covering in the drawing room.” Sir Charles Brett doesn’t attribute Glenmakieran to a specific architect in Buildings of North County Down, 2002, but does note that it was “no doubt inspired by Sir Edwin Lutyen’s house of 1901 at Deanery Gardens, Sonning”. He describes it as, “An extremely grand Edwardian merchant’s house, in the so called free style … built for Ernest Herdman: the foundation stone was laid in 1909.”

Celia concludes, “In 1967 it took just one day for Ross’s in Belfast to auction the house and its contents, even the books. The house went for only £5,000 and the contents £3,000. Fortunately Sion House is well documented. My grandfather wrote daily letters from 1934 to 1964 chronicling life in the house. At the moment I’m writing a book about my mother Maud Harriet MBE JP – a fascinating person. I now think of my Herdman ancestors as constructive revolutionaries totally committed to Ireland. They had great compassion for their countrymen and the courage to risk all to do something about their fate.”

The Irish Builder recorded the new Sion House in glowing terms in its December 1884 edition: “Sion House, the residence of the Herdman family, which for some time past, has been undergoing extensive alterations, is now completed, and as the building and grounds are singularly picturesque and pleasing, a short description of what is unquestionably one of the most unique and remarkable examples of domestic architecture in the north of Ireland, will be read with interest. The approach to the grounds is on the main road from Strabane to Baronscourt, about three miles from the latter place, and is entered through a delightfully quaint Old English gatehouse of striking originality, containing a porter’s residence and covered porch carried over the roadway. Winding down the graceful sweep of the avenue, through the wooded grounds which appear to have been laid out with considerable judgment many years ago, we catch a glimpse of the house, reflected in the artificial ponds formed in the ravine that is crossed by a two arch stone bridge of quite medieval character.”

“As we approach the house, the general grouping of the house is most pleasing, and the full effects of the rich colouring of the red tiled roof is now apparent, diversified with pitched gables, quaint dormers, the beautifully moulded red brick chimneys, the skyline being covered by the Tyrone mountains and the village church in the distance. The style of the building is late Tudor of the half timber character, which, thought it has been described as showing a singular and absurd heterogeneousness in detail, yet gives a wonderful picturesque in general effect. The principal entrance is on the north side, through a verandah supported on open carved brackets, in which is placed an old oak settle, elaborately carved and interlaced with natural foliage in bas relief. On entering through an enclosed porch we are ushered into a spacious entrance hall, with its quaint old fashioned staircase, open fireplace, and wood chimneypiece with overmantel extending to the height of the panelling.”

“The screens enclosing the entrance porch, as also that from the garden entrance to the southeast side, are filled in with lead lights glazed with painted glass and emblazoned with national and industrial emblems, monograms and coats of arms. The billiard room, which is in a semidetached position, and entered from the east side of the hall, is very characteristic of the style of the building, having the principal roof timbers exposed, and forming the pitched ceiling into richly moulded panels. The walls are wainscoted to a height of five feet in richly moulded and panelled work. The fireplace is open and lined with artistic glazed earthenware tiles of a deep green colour and waved surface, giving a pleasing variety of shadow, and is deeply recessed under a quaint panelled many centre arch, freely treated, forming a most cosy chimney corner with luxurious settles on each side. On a raised earth, laid with terra-metallic tiles in a most intricate pattern, are some of the finest examples of wrought iron dogs we have ever seen. There is also in this chimney nook a charming little window, placed so as to afford a view of the pleasure grounds. The reception rooms are on the south side. On entering the spacious drawing room we notice particularly the panelled arch across the further end, which forms a frame to the beautifully mullioned bay window enriched with patterned lead glazing.”

“From the recess of the bay a side doorway leads to a slightly elevated verandah enclosed with balustrade, extending the full length of the south façade and leading to the beautiful conservatory on the south side, with a short flight of steps giving access to the tennis lawns. The dining room is enclosed off this verandah by a handsome mullioned screen, having folding doors and patterned lead glazing similar to the drawing room bay. The walls of this room are panelled and moulded in English figured oak enriched with carvings, the arrangement of the buffet being an especial feature, as it forms part of the room in a coved recess and designed with the panelling. The fireplace is open and lined with tiles in two colours, of the same description as the billiard room, with chimneypiece and overmantel of carved oak, having bevelled mirrors, and arms carved in the most artistic manner in the centre panel. The mullioned screen masked by a gracefully carved arch made in oak and capped (as is also the panelling over the buffet and mantel) with a moulded cornice supported by artistically carved brackets and richly dentilled bead mouldings. Here and in the drawing room the ceilings are of elaborate workmanship, enriched in fibrous plaster, with moulded ribs in strong relief, and massive cornices with chastely enriched members. The floor, like those of the principal rooms and halls, is laid in solid oak parquetry.”

“The library and morning room are situated on the north side. These rooms are complete in arrangement for comfort, most of the required furniture and fittings being constructed with the building and in perfect character. The culinary departments are situated on the west side, on the same level as the principal rooms. They are of the most perfect and convenient description, containing every modern appliance for suitable working. Here also the evidence of artistic design is to be observed, more especially on a wrought iron hood constructed over the range for the purpose of carrying off the odour from the cooking to flues provided for that purpose. The hood is a very intricate piece of wrought ironwork which, we learn, was manufactured at the engineering works of Herdman and Co. The upper floors contain 16 spacious bedrooms and dressing rooms. Several of the bedrooms are obtained by the judicious pitching up the main roof, and obtaining light through the quaintly shaped dormers which form so marked a feature on the roofline. There is a spacious basement extending under the entire area of the building, which contains the usual offices, and in which are placed two of Pitt’s patented apparatus, now so favourably known for warming and ventilating, by which warmed fresh air is conveyed to the various apartments and corridors.”

“One of the great features of the exterior elevations is the balconies of which there are several, whence views of the varied scenery and charming surroundings can be obtained. There is also easy access to the leads of the roof, from which more extended views of the beautiful and romantic valleys of the Foyle and Mourne, together with the picturesquely grouped plantations of the Baronscourt demesne, and the far famed mountains of Barnesmore, Betsy Bell and Mary Gray can be seen in the distance. From this point a magnificent bird’s eye view can be obtained of the village of Sion and of the palatial buildings which form the flax spinning mills and offices of Herdman and Co, which we are pleased to observe are so rapidly extending their lines and improving under the enlightened policy of the spirited owners.”

“The gardens and grounds are laid out in terraces with low red brick walls in character with the house, which give great effect when viewed from the several levels. It is noticeable throughout the perfectness and richness of all the detail, which has been carried out with great care from special designs. The architect has succeeded in giving an individuality and picturesqueness of outline, due proportion of its parts and beauty of the whole, to the buildings and grounds, which have not been heretofore obtained in this part of the country. The execution of the work throughout was entrusted (without competition) to John Ballantine, builder of this city, who has carried it out in a style of workmanship maintaining his high reputation as a builder, and reflecting credit on the skilled tradesmen associated with him in the work. The entire building, gate entrance, bridge, grounds, fittings and principal furniture have been carried out according to the designs and under the superintendence of William Unsworth.”

Rex Herdman, a child of the house, would later recall, “The house was getting too small as the family grew up. Uncle Willie Unsworth did it very cleverly indeed, converting a square Irish country house into a long Tudor mansion with lovely proportions. He managed to build it around the old house with the minimum of demolition and alterations. At one end he added the present lovely hall and staircase, the drawing room – a room with great character, and a billiard room, now the library. At the other end he built the kitchen offices and servants’ hall. And over the main block of the house he added a second storey with a red tiled roof. Uncle Willie added on verandahs and balconies, and put a timbered shell on the outside, giving the house a Tudor style which in those days was most fashionable. Uncle Willie also laid out the gardens in terraces with steps and low brick walls.”

Opposite the mill high up on the far bank of the River Mourne in the parish of Camus-Juxta-Mourne (Camus is pronounced “Came-us”) stands Camus Rectory, an exquisite restored Georgian box. It is the polar opposite of Sion House in massing, design and fortune. The Herdman brothers bought the adjacent Camus Farm in 1847 and planted 10 hectares of oats and 1.6 hectares of turnips to feed their families and workers. Three hectares of flax were used for the mill.

While her family was having a transformative influence on County Tyrone, Emma Herdman was breaking boundaries and pushing back frontiers in north Africa. Her friend the Reverend Albert Augustus Isaacs, one of the first photographers of the Holy Land, wrote A Biographical Sketch Relative to the Missionary Labours of Emma Herdman in the Empire of Morocco the year after her death. He opens with, “Emma Herdman, the eldest daughter of James Herdman Esq, of Sion House, County Tyrone, Ireland, was born at Ligerton in the same county on 17 October 1844. From her earliest years she gave promise of attainments beyond those of her compeers. A French master, who was employed to conduct a French class, affirmed when she was but seven years of age, that he had never met with a child in his own experience of such mental capacity. At 13 years of age, Emma Herdman was sent to Neuwied on the Rhine, in order that she might acquire a competent knowledge of the German language. The school at Neuwied is under the direction of the Moravian Brethren. There is reason to believe that the work of grace in her soul was first kindled through the instrumentality of some Christian friends whose acquaintance she formed at a boarding house in Torquay.”

Emma was fluent in six modern languages and competent in Latin, Greek and Biblical Hebrew. Knowing Arabic would come in useful when she joined the North African Mission aged 40, moving from Tangier to settle in Fes (or Fez) in 1888. Albert explains, “A settlement in a town of this character was a matter of considerable difficulty. Up to that time no Consular agent or other representative of Great Britain had been settled in Fez. There were no other subjects of Her Britannic Majesty.” She was one of four female missionaries in the town who taught English and ran a medical clinic. “The authorities would hardly connect a number of helpless women with any intrigue, or any attempt to interfere with the customs and religion of the country. And when it became known that they ministered to the wants of the sick and suffering, it would serve to dissuade any zealot from canvasing the character of a work which bore such useful and profitable fruit.” Jonathan Hamill explains in The Herdman Family and Sion Mills: An Irish Linen Dynasty and Its Utopian Legacy, 2017, “Apart from two brief visits to England, in 1888 and 1893, Emma Herdman would spend the rest of her life in the African Missions.”

One of her many altruistic endeavours was her work with prisoners. Albert states, “In every land access to prisoners presents serious difficulties. The ladies of the Mission who had secured through their philanthropy and earnestness the respect of the Government officials, had no difficulty in reaching the vast numbers of those who were suffering imprisonment. Their native evangelists also got access to them.” In Emma’s own words, “The prison work increases in interest. We do a little in six prisons and three dungeons – practically large prisons also. In Fez most of the converts in the prisons are political prisoners – in irons, and always hungry. My bread, such as I send, is a luxury. For many I have bought matting, with which they make huts. I look for better Christianity here than in any land, for the people here have faith to start with, and many Christians have none – and many limit God. The believers here do not.”

In 1896, three years before her death, she ventured southwest in Morocco to Souss-Massa. Emma was the first European to enter this region. She records, “The scenery has been lovely. Some of the creeks would be valuable bathing places in a civilised land. We have come into the Bay of Agadir. One creek was full of large caves, the rocks forming flat roofs to them. In these caverns jackals, hyenas and foxes abound.” Albert confirms, “Much of the enjoyment of the scenery must have been lost to the traveller, for she was not allowed to wear spectacles. The use of these would have been an evidence that she came from one of the lands with which the inhabitants of Souss had a feud.”

On her return to Fes, Emma took suddenly ill but dedicated herself to work until the end. “She could not be dissuaded from receiving and teaching the group of men who hung upon her lips for instruction from the Word of God. A few of the number, in front of whom stands the vacant chair, have been photographed, to illustrate the manner in which this portion of her work was carried on.” When she rose from that chair her work was done – her pilgrimage was drawing to a close. “There was hardly an interval between the moment when her last words fell on the ears of the group of men, of whom she had been the venerated teacher, and the blessed summons into the presence of the King.” Her fellow workers decided Emma needed to get to Tangier – a four to five day journey – to meet a doctor. “Very early on the morning of Thursday 20 April, Miss Herdman, who had seemed no worse, was carried in the palanquin by bearers to the outside of the city. There the mules were yoked to it, and the party started.”

“On Sunday the party reached a village about 20 miles south of Alcazar. There Miss Herdman again became worse, and at dawn the following morning, just after the march had been resumed, she quietly passed away at 5am. After halting for an hour and doing what was necessary for our dear friend’s remains, the party proceeded towards Tangier that Tuesday, which was still 72 miles or so off. It was a sad procession which wended its way into the city of Tangier.” She was thought to have died of acute pericarditis and an ulcerated throat. Emma was immediately buried in a Christian cemetery in Tangier. “The Jew and the Gentile, the Moor and the Spaniard stood side by side with the English speaking inhabitants and the band of fellow works, in committing to its last early resting place the remains of their beloved friend. Miss Mellett wrote that ‘almost everyone was in tears’. One colporteur brought a geranium all the way from Fez to plant on her grave.” Albert summed up Emma Herdman: “Her energetic Irish nature was full of spirit and zeal.”

The July 1899 edition of The Monthly Record of the North Africa Mission (priced one penny) included an In Memoriam to Emma Herdman, “Various fellow labourers have worked with her, but she has ever been the leader. As a rule, she devoted herself to the work of teaching the people; and being older than the rest and more experienced, gave special attention to the men to whom younger ladies could not so well speak. Though not 55 at the time of her death, she had the appearance of being many years older, and her wisdom and experience caused her to be universally looked up to by both natives and Europeans. No native dared to be disrespectful to her. Large numbers of men and women came to her house for medicine, and she usually, though not always, left the doctoring to her fellow workers and attended herself to the spiritual work. Then she visited the homes of the people, and from time to time travelled extensively in the country.”

At the same time Emma was living in Fes, the north of Ireland’s great artist Sir John Lavery (1856 to 1941) made frequent visits to Tangier. The city was much more developed than Fes and the brilliant intensity of its coastal light attracted artists and wealthy visitors. His first visit was in 1891 and eventually he would buy a house in Tangier. Lavery on Location, a 2024 exhibition at the Ulster Museum Belfast, celebrated the artist’s work. Exhibited oils on canvas included The Road to Fez, The Camp, Evening (1906); On the Cliffs, Tangier (1911); and Tangier Bay, Sunshine (1920). The Pergola (1906) captures alfresco living at the Laverys’ winter retreat Dar-el-Midfah. In two very different ways, the legacies of these Irish giants of civilisation remain undiminished. Sir John Lavery’s art can be enjoyed in galleries in Belfast, Dublin and London. Emma Herdman and her cohort at the North African Mission established a Christian community in Morocco which continues to this day with the International Protestant Church of Fes.

The Herdmans’ evangelising efforts didn’t end with Emma’s demise. Jonathan Hamill relates, “After Emma’s death, her anti smoking teetotal vegetarian sister Agnes was moved to continue her work in Morocco … Agnes is referred to as a ‘Holy Terror’, a deeply devout woman with a seemingly endless supply of religious tracts, which she handed out to members of the family at every available opportunity. For example, a request to see the Catholic Cathedral in Derry was not all that it seemed. As Agnes made her way through the cathedral, boldly leaving her tracts on the empty pews, another sister scurried along behind her, discreetly gathering them up.” That other sister was Julia, who smoked a pipe and enjoyed a tipple of whiskey.

Back to the present and one of the workers talks about his experience at Herdman’s Mill: “I started a six year apprenticeship in the mill in 1965 and worked there for the next 13 years. I was one of six apprentices. All the basic skills were given to you – there was an inhouse training centre. There was about 600 people working in the mill then. During slumps in the trade we would sometimes be down to a three day week. All the facilities were immaculately kept: there was a bowling green, cricket pitch and tennis court. You got time off work to play matches. Mr Pat Herdman was small and very well built; he had leather sewn into the elbows of his jacket and had a wee dog. He would be chauffeured in a Bentley but sometimes he would drive around in his chauffeur’s Mini. The gardens of Sion House were fantastic and had a full time gardener. The Herdmans always had new potatoes that had been planted in sand for Christmas day.”

“There was the old mill and when I left the new mill was built. But there was also the original mill. Each floor of the old mill was a different department. The spinning room on the fourth floor was a wet process so workers wore aprons and were in their bare feet. The fifth floor winding room continued drawing out the thread. Then in the finishing room the flax was finally made into thread. The machines were all maintained inhouse by the overhaul team. The spinning room was all women but the winding room was mixed. At 10am tea was brought round and you could buy a cup. Byssinosis was a health risk of the flax industry but the Herdmans introduced ventilation and fans early on. We were the first linen yard in the world to build a floor with slots in it over the turbines for flax to be left covering the floor and the moisture from the water below strengthened it: this method was unique.”

Herdman’s Mill closed in 2004 and despite various attempts to rejuvenate the nine hectare site and its cluster of large buildings, it remains derelict and vandalised. Only a few metres away from the mill entrance, the gardens of Sion House are well maintained but such is the scale of the house that it requires restoration. Jeremy Williams writes in his 1994 work Architecture in Ireland 1837 to 1921, “Timber verandahs are losing out in their struggle to support wisteria.” The “beautifully moulded red brick chimneys” so admired by the Irish Builder disappeared during one of several phases of 20th century renovation works. The gatehouse is more manageable in size and in better condition: after lying boarded up it was restored in 2017 and the mock Tudor exterior has been painted mustard and skin colour rather than the more conventional black and white. The stable block with its distinctive clocktower abutting the main road through the village, another William Unsworth design matching Sion House, was restored in 2014 by Hearth Preservation Trust. Jeremy also writes, “The shingle stable block and the half timbered gatehouse screen once formal grounds from the outside world.”

After a couple of restaurants opened and closed, Dundalk born Chef Patron Niall Gorham has been successfully running Sika by Niall in one half of the former Sion House stables since 2023. The other half is a museum of the village. Originally from Dundalk, Niall has 22 years’ experience working in Dublin, Letterkenny and Strabane. This is his first solo venture. Sika comes from the deer that once roamed the nearby Baronscourt Estate, seat of the Duke of Abercorn. The 7th Viscount Powerscourt introduced this Asian breed into Ireland in 1860. The restaurant interior retains the stables’ leaded windows, parquet floor and roof beams. Sunday lunch is especially popular. Beetroot and vodka cured salmon with spiced caper berry dressing followed by roasted Ballyholey vegetable and goat’s cheese wellington with smoked paprika sauce is unmissable. Sion House has seen better days; Emma Herdman is long gone; Herdman’s Mill has definitely seen better days; but Sion House Stables are living their best life right now.

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Sammy Leslie + Castle Leslie Glaslough Monaghan

The Rear View 

In 2006 Ulster Architect was Ireland’s leading design magazine – by a country kilometre. Publisher Editor Anne Davey Orr blazed the trail much to the chagrin of Perspective journal which was set up in competition by some local architects to no fanfare: the bitterati. Ulster Architect far outlived Prince Charles’ blink and you’ll have missed it publication Perspectives in Architecture. Success is a dish best served cold. The articles in Ulster Architect – by Sir Charles Brett, Leo McKinstry and too many other literati to mention – have stood the test of time. It’s hard to believe that our interview with the glorious Sammy Leslie for the September edition of Ulster Architect is now nearly two decades old. Happy 18th!

Sir John Betjeman, Sir Winston Churchill, Marianne Faithfull, Sir Paul McCartney and William Butler Yeats have all been. The great and the good, the glitterati in other words. In recent years thanks to Sammy Leslie and her uncle the 4th Baronet, Sir John (forever known as Sir Jack), Castle Leslie has flung open its heavy doors to the hoi polloi (albeit the well heeled variety) too, rebuilding its rep as a byword for sybaritic hospitality. Visitors from Northern Ireland could be forgiven for experiencing déjà vu – it’s the doppelgänger of Belfast Castle. Both were designed in the 1870s by the same architects: William Lynn and Sir Charles Lanyon.

Together these two architects captured the spirit of the age. William Lynn produced a majestic baronial pile with chamfered bay windows perfectly angled for simultaneous views of the garden and lake. Sir Charles Lanyon crammed the house full of Italian Renaissance interiors and designed a matching loggia to boot. Fully signed up members of the MTV Cribs generation will find it hard not to go into unexpected sensory overload at this veritable treasure trove of historic delights. Castle Leslie is all about faded charm; it’s the antithesis of footballer’s pad bling. But still, the place is an explosion of rarity, of dazzling individuality. Sir Jack’s brother Desmond Leslie wrote in 1950, “The trees are enormous, 120 feet being average for conifers; the woods tangled and impenetrable; gigantic Arthur Rackham roots straddle quivering bog, and in the dark lake huge old fish lie or else bask in the amber ponds where branches sweep down to kiss the water.”

We caught up with Sammy in the cookery school in one of the castle’s wings. “Although I’m the fifth of six children, I always wanted to run the estate, even if I didn’t know how. After working abroad, I returned in 1991. The estate was at its lowest point ever. My father Desmond was thinking of selling up to a Japanese consortium. There was no income … crippling insurance to pay … The Troubles were in full swing. People forget how near we are to the border here.”

Nevertheless Sammy took it on. “I sold Dad’s car for five grand and got a five grand grant from the County Enterprise Board to start the ‘leaky tearooms’ in the conservatory. They were great as long as it didn’t rain! And I sold some green oak that went to Windsor Castle for their restoration. Sealing the roof was the first priority. Five years later we started to take people to stay and bit by bit we got the rest of the house done. So we finished the castle in 2006 after – what? – nearly 15 years of slow restoration.” The Castle Leslie and Caledon Regeneration Partnership part funded by the European Union provided finance of €1.2 million. Bravo! The house and estate were saved from the jaws of imminent destruction.

The Leslies are renowned for their sense of fun. An introductory letter sent to guests mentions Sir Jack (an octogenarian) will lead tours on Sunday mornings but only if he recovers in time from clubbing. In the gents (or “Lords” as it’s grandly labelled) off the entrance hall beyond a boot room, individual urinals on either side of a fireplace are labelled “large”, “medium”, “tiny” and “liar”. Take your pick. A plethora of placards between taxidermy proclaim such witticisms as “On this site in 1897 nothing happened” and “Please go slowly round the bend”.

Bathrooms are a bit of a Leslie obsession ever since thrones and thunderboxes were first introduced upstairs. “The sanitaryware in the new bathrooms off the long gallery is by Thomas Crapper. Who else?” she smiles. “We’ve even got a double loo in the ladies so that you can carry on conversations uninterrupted!” Exposed stone walls above tongue and groove panelling elevate these spaces above mere public conveniences. In the 1890s the 1st Sir John Leslie painted murals of his family straight onto the walls of the roof lantern lit long gallery, which runs parallel with the loggia, and framed them to look like hanging portraits.

Always one to carry on a family tradition with a sense of pun, this time visual tricks, Sammy has created a thumping big doll’s house containing an en suite bathroom within a bedroom which was once a nursery, complete with painted façade. It wouldn’t look out of place on the set of Irvine Walsh’s play Babylon Heights.

A sense of history prevails within these walls, from the mildly amusing to the most definitely macabre. The blood drenched shroud which received the head of James, 3rd Earl of Derwentwater, the last English earl to be beheaded for being a Catholic, is mounted on the staircase wall. “It’s a prized possession of Uncle Jack’s,” Sammy confides. Unsurprisingly, the castle is riddled with ghosts.

Our conversation moves on to her latest enterprise: the Castle Leslie Village. “An 1850s map records a village on the site,” she says. “Tenant strips belonging to old mud houses used to stretch down to the lake. Our development is designed as a natural extension to the present village of Glaslough.” In contrast to the ornate articulation of its country houses, Ulster’s vernacular vocabulary is one of restraint. Dublin architect John Cully produced initial drawings; Belfast practice Consarc provided further designs and project managed the scheme. Consarc architect Dawson Stelfox has adhered to classical proportions rather than applied decoration to achieve harmony. Unpretentiousness is the key. At Castle Leslie Village there are no superfluous posts or pillars or piers or peers or pediments or porticos or porte cochères. Self builders of Ulster take note!

That said, enough variety has been introduced into the detail of the terraces to banish monotony. Organic growth is suggested through the use of Georgian 12 pane, Victorian four pane and Edwardian two pane windows. There are more sashes than a 12th of July Orange Day parade. Rectangular, elliptical and semicircular fanlights are over the doorways, some sporting spider’s web glazing bars, others Piscean patterns. “We’ve used proper limestone and salvaged brick,” notes Sammy. “And timber window frames and slate.”

We question Sammy how she would respond to accusations of pastiche. “They’re original designs, not copies,” she retorts. “For example although they’re village houses, the bay window idea comes from the castle. The development is all about integration with the existing village. It’s contextual. These houses are like fine wine. They’ll get better with age.” It’s hard to disagree. “There’s a fine line between copying and adapting but we’ve gone for the latter.”

Later we spoke to Dawson Stelfox. “Pastiche is copying without understanding. We’re keeping alive tradition, not window dressing. For example we paid careful attention to solid-to-void ratios. Good quality traditional architecture is not time linked. We’re simply preserving a way of building. McGurran Construction did a good job. I think Castle Leslie Village is quite similar to our work at Strangford.” The houses are clustered around two highly legible and permeable spaces: a square and a green. Dwelling sizes range from 80 to 230 square metres. “We offered the first two phases to locals at the best price possible and they were all snapped up,” says Sammy. “This has resulted in a readymade sense of community because everyone knows each other already. A few of the houses are available for holiday letting.”

“We’re concentrating on construction first,” she explains. “The Hunting Lodge being restored by Dawson will have 25 bedrooms, a spa and 60 stables. It’ll be great craic! Between the various development sites we must be employing at least 120 builders at the moment. Estate management is next on the agenda. Food production and so on.” Just when we think we’ve heard about all of the building taking place at Castle Leslie, Sammy mentions the old stables. “They date from 1780 and have never been touched. Two sides of the courtyard are missing. We’re going to rebuild them. The old stables will then house 12 holiday cottages.”

We ask her if she ever feels daunted by the mammoth scale of the task. “I do have my wobbly days but our family motto is ‘Grip Fast’! I think that when you grow up in a place like this you always have a sense of scale so working on a big scale is normal. I mean it’s 400 hectares, there’s seven kilometres of estate wall, six gatelodges – all different, and 7,300 square metres of historic buildings.” Sammy continues, “The back wall from the cookery school entrance to the end of the billiard room is a quarter of a kilometre.”

“A place like this evolves,” Sammy ruminates. “There’s no point in thinking about the good ol’ days of the past. The castle was cold and damp, y’know, and crumbling. And it’s just – it’s a joy to see it all coming back to life. The whole reason we’re here is to protect and preserve the castle and because the house was built to entertain, that’s what we’re doing. We’re just entertaining on a grand scale. People are coming and having huge amounts of fun here. Castle Leslie hasn’t changed as much as the outside world. Ha!” This year there’s plenty to celebrate including the completion of Castle Leslie Village, the Leslie family’s 1,000th anniversary, Sammy’s 40th birthday, and Sir Jack’s 90th coinciding with the publication of his memoirs.

That was six years ago. This summer we returned to Castle Leslie. Our seventh visit, we first visited the house umpteen years ago. Back then Sammy served us delicious sweetcorn sandwiches and French onion soup in the leaky tearooms, looking over the gardens of knee high grass. The shadows were heightening and lengthening ‘cross the estate. Her late father Desmond showed a nun and us round the fragile rooms lost in a time warp. Ireland’s Calke Abbey without The National Trust saviour. He would later write to us on 11 May 1993, waxing lyrical to transform an acknowledgement letter into a piece of allegorical and existential prose.

On another occasion, Sammy’s younger sister, the vivacious blonde screenwriter Camilla Leslie, came striding up the driveway, returning home from London to get ready for her wedding the following week. “People have been buying me pints all day! Nothing’s ready! I’ve to get the cake organised, my dress, at least we’ve got the church!” she exclaimed to us, pointing to the estate church.

This time round we stay in Wee Joey Farm Hand’s Cottage in Castle Leslie Village and enjoy a lively Friday night dinner in Snaffles restaurant on the first floor of the Hunting Lodge. We’re all “tastefully atwitter over glissades and pirouettes” to take a quote from Armistead Maupin’s More Tales of the City (1984), applying it to a rural setting. The following day, afternoon tea is served, this time in the drawing room. Meanwhile, Sir Jack is taking a disco nap in the new spa to prepare for his regular Saturday night clubbing in nearby Carrickmacross.

That was four years ago. Visit number eight and counting. More to celebrate as Sammy, still living in the West Wing, turns 50. Sir Jack would have turned 100 on 6 December 2016 but sadly died just weeks before our visit. This time, we’re here for afternoon tea in the rebuilt conservatory or ‘sunny tearooms’ as they turn out to be today. The assault of a rare Irish heatwave, 26 degrees centigrade for days on end, won’t interrupt tradition. A turf fire is still lit in the drawing room. “Apologies for the mismatching crockery as so many of our plates have been smashed during lively dinner debates” warned a sign on our first visit. The crockery all matches now but the food is of the same high standard: cucumber and cream cheese brioches; oak cured Irish smoked salmon pitta; fruit scones with Castle Leslie preserves and clotted cream; crumpets and custard pies; rounded off with Earl Grey macaroons, Victoria sponge cake and lemon meringues.

Miraculously, Castle Leslie still has no modern extensions. It hasn’t been ‘Carton’d’ (in conservation-speak that means more extensions than an Essex girl in a hairdressers). Instead, the hotel has grown organically, stretching further and further into Lynn and Lanyon’s building. An upstairs corridor lined with servants’ bells – Sir J Leslie’s Dressing Room, Lady Leslie’s Dressing Room, Dining Room, Office – leads to a cinema carved out of old attics. Castle Leslie has had its ups and downs but Sammy Leslie is determined to ‘Grip Fast’! And in response to Ms Leslie’s late father’s letter to us, we will come again when there is nothing better to do on a nice weekend.

That nice weekend has come or at least a nice Friday evening. We’re here for a celebration dinner. January 2024 is especially cold – minus two degrees centigrade but the turf fires at Castle Leslie are, as ever, roaring. Dinner is in Conor’s Bar on the ground floor of the Hunting Lodge below Snaffles.

It’s 3pm in New York, 5am in Tokyo and 8pm in Glaslough according to clocks high up on the stone wall of the courtyard entrance hall. A poem by the comedian Billy Connolly, The Welly Boot Boy, hangs in the boot room. A cartoon series on The Gentle Art of Making Guinness hangs in the gents. And so to dinner: garlic tiger prawns (toasted sourdough, Estate Walled Garden chimichurri sauce) followed by sweet potato and mozzarella gnocchi (asparagus, peas, spinach and crushed basil) keep up the very high standard of gourmet cooking with local produce.

We’re dressed to the nines, accessorised by Mary Martin London, for our ninth visit to the castle. Sammy, looking as fresh as she did 18 years ago, also dining in Conor’s, greets us like a long lost friend. We congratulate her on saving one of Ireland’s most important historic houses and estates. “There’s still more to do!” she beams. “We need to restore the seven kilometre Famine Wall next and several gatelodges too. There’s always work to be done!”

Sammy explains that overnight guests staying in the castle bedrooms have breakfast in the dining room but later meals in the day are down in the Hunting Lodge as that’s where the main kitchen is now. The paradox of continuity and progress at Castle Leslie. Time stands still for no woman. The leaky tearooms may no longer leak but the ghosts are still all around, some new ones in their midst, silent misty figures just out of clear vision, partying in the shadows. To take another quote by Armistead Maupin, “Too much of a good thing is wonderful.”

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Dorinda The Honourable Lady Dunleath + Killyvolgan House Ballywalter Down

Life and Times

Dorinda loved discussing the many Irish country houses she knew well. “I could write a book about my experiences in country houses. Maybe you should for me!” One of her earliest memories was visiting her uncle and aunt, Major Charlie and Sylvia Alexander, at the now demolished Pomeroy House in County Tyrone. Dorinda also enjoyed visiting Springhill in County Londonderry (now owned by The National Trust) – she was married from there in 1959. There was a painting of Springhill in the sitting room of Killyvolgan House. It was her Great Aunt Mina’s home. Mina Lenox-Conyngham was the last owner of Springhill. “Staying at her house was always enormous fun.”

“I remember aged six being taken against my will to dancing lessons at Lissan House. It was absolutely freezing! I lay on the ground screaming and kicking my feet in the air. Such a dull house, don’t you think?” She was great pals with Diana Pollock of Mountainstown House in County Meath and recalled good times there with Diana and her sisters. “I could never love Mount Stewart. Dundarave has an interesting vast hall but the reception rooms are plain. I remember the auction of Mount Panther’s contents. Everyone was standing in the entrance hall and up the stairs when the staircase started coming away from the wall! Cousin Captain Bush lived in Drumhalla House near Rathmullan in Donegal. He’d a parrot and wore a wig. I remember he threw his wig off when he went swimming in the cove end of the garden. I was absolutely terrified to jump in after him!”

One of Dorinda’s most memorable stories combines several of her loves: country houses, fashion and parties. “It was the Sixties and I had just bought a rather fashionable tin foil dress from a catalogue. I thought it would be perfect for Lady Mairi Bury’s party at Mount Stewart. It was so tight and I was scared of ripping it so I lay down on our bedroom floor, arms stretched out in front of me, and Henry slid me into it.” She gave a demonstration, laughing. “Unfortunately I stood too near one of the open fires and my dress got hotter and hotter. I thought I was going to go up in smoke! So that was the first and last time I wore it!” Dorinda always managed to look stylish, whether casual or formal. Her suits were the envy of fellow Trustees of the Board of Historic Buildings Trust. Her ‘off duty’ uniform of polo neck, sports jacket, jeans and boyish shoes was effortlessly chic.

When it came to finding her own country house after her tenure at Ballywalter Park ended, things proved challenging. “I searched for two years for a suitable property. There’s a country house for sale in Keady. Nobody lives there! I’d be driving up and down to Belfast non stop!” Eventually Dorinda would build her own house on a site just beyond the walled estate of Ballywalter Park. At first, she wanted to rebuild the double pile gable ended two storey three bay house occupying the site called McKee’s Farm but when the structure proved unstable, a new house was conceived. Despite being known as a modernist, Belfast architect Joe Fitzgerald was selected to design a replacement house of similar massing to McKee’s Farm, adding single storey wings in Palladian style. Like its owner, Killyvolgan House is understated, elegant and charming. She was pleased when the council planners described Killyvolgan as the ideal new house in the countryside. It displays a distinguished handling of proportion and lightness of touch.

“I bought the Georgian grandfather clock in the entrance hall from Dublin. I’m always slightly concerned at how fragile my papier mâché chairs are for ‘larger guests’ in the drawing room. I guess the chairs were really meant for a bedroom? I’ve painted all the walls in the house white as the shadows on them help me see around.” And then there was the urn in the courtyard. “The Coade stone urn I found in the 19th century barn was much too grand. So instead I bought this cast iron urn on the King’s Road in Belfast. Fine, I will leave the Marston and Langinger pot you have brought me in the urn so that I remember that colour. Oh, Farrow and Ball are very smart! They’re very clever at their marketing.” In the end, the much debated urn would remain unpainted. “Henry wouldn’t deal with snobs. That’s why I liked him. Henry took everything he got involved in very seriously. Henry was the only Alliance Party member in the House of Lords. He strongly promoted the Education (Northern Ireland) Act 1974 which provided greater parity across the sectarian divide.” Later, “Oh how exciting, is it full of good restaurants and bars? Great! I’ll be an authority now on Ballyhackamore.”

She recalled an early drama at The Park. It was a tranquil Sunday morning in 1973 and unusually Dorinda was at home rather than at Holy Trinity Church Ballywalter. “Henry was singing the 23rd Psalm at Eucharist when he heard six fire brigades go by. Poor people, he pitied. I’d warned our butler not to interfere with the gas cylinders of the boiler, but he did, and the whole thing exploded, lifting off the dome of the Staircase Hall like a pressure cooker. The Billiard Room disappeared under a billow of smoke and flames. I rang the fire brigade and said, ‘Come quickly! There’s a fire at Ballywalter Park!’ The operator replied, ‘Yes, madam, but what number in Ballywalter Park?’” The estate of course doesn’t have a number – although it does have its own postcode.

“A spare room full of china collections fell through the roof. Well, I guess I’d always wanted to do an archaeological dig! It was so sad, really. As well as the six fire brigades, 300 people gathered from the village and around to help lift furniture onto the lawn. Fortunately the dome didn’t crack. Isn’t life stranger than fiction? The Powerscourt fire happened just one year later. Henry was philosophical and said we can build a replacement house in the walled garden.” In the end the couple would be responsible for restoring the house to its lasting glory. Ballywalter Park is a mid 19th century architectural marvel designed by Sir Charles Lanyon.

“I arrived over from London as a young wife and suddenly had to manage 12 servants. I used to tiptoe around so as not to disturb them. There was a crazy crew in the kitchen. Mrs Clarke was the cook. Billy Clarke, the scatty elderly butler, mostly sat smoking. Mrs Clarke couldn’t cook unless he was there. I was too shy to say anything!” Dorinda once briefly dated Tony Armstrong-Jones who would become the society photographer Lord Snowdon. “We met at pony club. He got me to model sitting next to a pond at our house in Widford, Hertfordshire.” One book described Dorinda as being “very pretty”. When questioned, she replied, “Well, quite pretty!” She was more interested in her time bookbinding for The Red Cross. In those days The Bunch of Grapes in Knightsbridge was Dorinda’s local. “Browns Hotel and The Goring were ‘safe’ for debutantes. After we got married we went to the State Opening of Parliament. We stayed in Henry’s club and I haled a taxi wearing a tiara and evening dress. Harrods was once full of people one would know. We would know people there. ‘Do you live near Harrods?’ people would ask. I’ve heard everyone now lives southwest down the river, near the boat races. You need some luck and then you’ve just got to make your own way having fun in London.”

As ever with Dorinda there were always more great stories to relate. “I bought the two paintings from the School of Van Dyke in my dining room for £40. I knew they were rather good landscapes so I decided to talk to Anthony Blunt about them. We arranged to meet in The Courtauld for lunch. Halfway though our meal he disappeared for a phone call. He was probably waiting for a message, ‘Go to the second tree on the left!’ He never reappeared. Next thing I heard he was a spy and had gone missing! I think he turned up in Moscow. I’ll remember other interesting things when you’re gone.” Occasionally colloquialisms would slip into her polite conversation. “The funeral was bunged! He’s completely mustard! She’s a pill!” One of Dorinda’s catchphrases, always expressed with glee, was, “That’s rather wild!”

“I called up to The Park. It was so funny: for the first time in history there were three Lady Dunleaths including me all sitting chatting on a sofa! One lives in The Park; the other, King’s Road and I don’t mean Belfast!” Dorinda made steeple chasing sound so riveting. A dedicated rider and breeder, she was Chairman of the Half Bred Horse Breeders Society. The Baroness’s contribution to Northern Irish culture and society is unsurpassed. She was Patron of the Northern Ireland Chest Stroke and Heart Association and the Northern Ireland Council for Integrated Education, as well as being a Committee Member of the Royal Ulster Agricultural Society. Dorinda was a Director of the Ulster Orchestra and a founding member of the National Trust in Northern Ireland and the Ulster Architectural Heritage Society. Along with Sir Charles Brett she laboriously carried out and published early ‘Listings’ of buildings in places such as Downpatrick, Dungannon and Lisburn. The Baroness’s legacy lives on in the Dorinda Lady Dunleath Charitable Trust. This charity was started by her late husband but after he died it was changed into Dorinda’s name and she added to it every year thereafter. It supports education; healthcare and medical research; the arts, culture, heritage and science; the environment; alleviating poverty; and advancement of the Christian faith. The Dorinda Lady Dunleath Charitable Trust continues to donate to charities that she would have liked, with a focus on Northern Ireland.

One of the last heritage projects Dorinda supported was the restoration and rejuvenation of Portaferry Presbyterian Church, not far from Ballywalter. It’s one of the best Greek Revival buildings in the United Kingdom. “Prince Charles came to the reopening. I curtsied so low I could barely stand up again! Afterwards, a few of us had a very grand supper at Ikea to celebrate!” She voiced concern about the future of the organ at Down Cathedral. Music in May at Ballywalter Park was an annual festival of organ music started by the newlyweds. The Dunleath Organ Scholarship Trust was set up by her late husband and she continued to support it for the rest of her life, attending its concerts each year.

“It’s so exciting… I can’t say how exciting it is you’re here! Tell me, who is this David Bowie everyone’s talking about? I feel like I’m about 100! It’s like when my father asked me, ‘Who is this Bing Crosby?’ The House of Lords used to be full of country specialists like experts in bees or men who loved linen. They used to give the most marvellous speeches. Each generation must do something. It would be great to write this down.” Later, “Gardens should have vistas, don’t you think? They need focal points; you need to walk for an hour to a place of discovery. Capability Brown and Repton knew how to do it.”

In latter years, there were memorable times to be had at The Wildfowler Inn, Greyabbey. Those long, languid lunches. “Portavogie scampi? I’ll have the same as you. And a glass of white wine please. We can have sticky toffee pudding after.” Dorinda would don her yellow high viz jacket, pulling the distinctive look off with considerable aplomb. Her eyesight failing, she would claim, “It helps people see me in Tesco in Newtownards!” Much later, balmy summer afternoons in the sheltered courtyard of Killyvolgan House would stretch long into the evening. There was Darjeeling and more laughter. Those were the days. Halcyon days by the shore. Days that will linger forever. On that last evening at Killyvolgan, Dorinda pondered, “Is there anyone left who cares about architectural heritage?”

Categories
Architects Architecture Country Houses

Castle Dobbs Carrickfergus Antrim + Sir Charles Lanyon

Two Faced

Castle Ward is the most famous example of architectural schizophrenia in Ulster. High street bank neoclassicism one front; Strawberry Hill Gothick, the other. The two main elevations are stylistically divorced from each other. The two styles of Castle Dobbs may be closer relatives in taste but intertwine on the same elevations. It’s (likely) an early 18th century James Gibbs Pattern Book house with (likely) mid 19th century Sir Charles Lanyon accretions creeping round it like ivy.

Categories
Architecture Country Houses

Benburb Manor + Benburb Priory Tyrone

Macha’s Twins

Benburb Manor Tyrone © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Benburb Manor in County Tyrone – red brick, chamfered bay windows, high gables – is like a suburban Belfast villa on steroids. It was built in 1887 to the design of the prolific architect William Henry Lynn when he was in his late 50s. The house is a more restrained version of Castle Leslie and that County Monaghan mansion isn’t exactly externally ostentatious. Perhaps breaking away from his professional partner Sir Charles Lanyon allowed Wills to rationalise his style. Or maybe it was just tight purse strings of his client James Bruce, a Belfast businessman. Stone bands are the only tiny flash of exuberance. James had bought the estate from Viscount Powerscourt 11 years earlier.

Benburb Servite Priory Estate © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Benburb is now a wonderful asset to the community, a hidden highlight of this far flung edge of Ulster. In 1949 the house was bought by the Servite Fathers as a priory. This has broadened into the Benburb Centre, a “house of healing and reconciliation”. Over the years poets (Seamus Heaney) have taught and artists (John Vallely) have wrought works and theatre directors (Tyrone Guthrie) have sought solitude here.

Benburb Servite Priory © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The village – all one street of it or maybe two at a push – is lined with delightfully quaint estate cottages. On a balmy Sunday morning in Benburb, there’s the clink of coffee cups in the stables courtyard café; the singing of hymns from the open door of St Patrick’s; the prayerful footsteps of visitors on retreat treading through the forest; the rush of water far below; and the sound of silence at the Hermitage.

Benburb Servite Priory Stables © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Benburb Manorial Estate. Descriptive Particulars of Sale, with Plans and Conditions of Sale, of an Exceedingly valuable and highly important Freehold Manorial Domain containing altogether about 9,290 A. 1 R. 25 P. A splendid Investment in rich Agricultural Land, of which it may be said hardly one Acre is uncultivated. It is also exceedingly well adapted to Residential Purposes, and many Sites for the construction of a Mansion as a central and appropriate Residence for so important an Estate. Benburb is, with the exception of a few Acres, all within a Ring Fence, and is situate between the Towns of Armagh on the South, Dungannon on the North, Moy on the East, Auchnacloy and Caledon on the West, within 40 miles of Belfast, well served by lines of Railway, so as to render it accessible from the parts. The lands are chiefly in arable and grass, well watered and undulating, and the Property as a whole does not differ materially from a well circumstanced Estate in the English Midlands, excepting that the cultivation of Flax here receives primary attention. It is intersected by good hard Roads, and divided into convenient Farms with excellent buildings and cottages.

Benburb Servite Priory Gatelodge © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Village of Benburb is a neat and clean dependency, and is quite of a model character. The ancient Castle and the Manor of Benburb are included, and the whole Property produces more than £9,000 per annum, which magnificent Rent Roll, lately adjusted under a friendly arbitration (where it will remain until another increase is required), offers a specially well secured Income. The Sporting is excellent, and is reserved to the Landlord. Hunting can be obtained within a short distance. The Blackwater bounds a considerable portion of the Estate, and is a capital Salmon River; and as a whole it is confidently offered as a splendid Investment in Land, adapted to the large Capitalist who seeks such an outlet for his money to produce a higher return than can be found in the soil of England.

Benburb Servite Priory Hermitage © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

To be sold by Auction, by Messrs E and H Lumley at the Mart, Tokenhouse Yard, Lothbury, London, on Tuesday, the 22nd day of August, 1876, at two o’clock precisely – in One Lot, unless an acceptable offer be previously made by Private Contract. John Sloan, at the Village of Benburb, will show the Property. Printed Particulars of Sale, with Conditions and Plan, may be obtained of Robert Dixon, Esq, Solicitor, No.5, Finsbury Square, London; Messrs S S and E Reeves and Sons, Solicitors, No.17, Merrion Square East, Dublin; George Posnett, Esq, Enniskerry, County Wicklow; at the Imperial and the Royal Hotels, Belfast; the Gresham and the Shelburne [sic] Hotels, Dublin; the Charlemont Arms Hotel, Armagh; Morris’s Hotel, Dungannon; the Imperial Hotel, Cork; at the Auction Mart, London; and of Messrs Edward and Henry Lumley, Land Agents and Auctioneers, 31 and 32, St James’s Street, Piccadilly, London.”

St Patrick's Church Benburb © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Categories
Architects Architecture Country Houses Hotels Restaurants

Abbeydene House Whiteabbey Antrim + President Trump

Angels Unawares

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A phalanx of genteel residences, sphinx-like architectural sentinels, guards the east coast of Belfast Lough. Monuments to elaborately espaliered family trees, long forgotten aristocrats and plutocrats, sepia tinted sequins and foxtrots, Elysia lost to rampant suburbia. Sequestered by sequoias is Abbeydene House. The building was shorn of accretions when it was restored as part of a late 20th century redevelopment of the estate. Thus Abbeydene stands in mid Victorian sandstone glory amidst mildly colonial neighbours. The American style has some historic bearing: General Eisenhower lunched at the house in 1945 when it was owned by Mayor McCullough. Sir Crawford McCullough was the instigator of the five minute (since shortened to two minute) silence for fallen soldiers.

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The current owners accept paying guests. The original nine principal bedrooms have been reduced to eight all with en suite bathrooms. Rooms are named after American Presidents so naturally there’s the Eisenhower and also the Lincoln and Roosevelt. Only one Clinton. What about a Trump Suite? “No chance,” says host Tim Clifford. Abbeydene, or Lismara as it was originally called, was designed by architect-engineer engineer-architect Sir Charles Lanyon. “His son lived here,” notes Tim. “Sir Charles Lanyon didn’t build many private homes. He was better known for his public commissions such as Queen’s University and Ormeau Bridge.”

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In 1890 Sir Herbert Lanyon died and the house was sold to Edward Robinson, one half of Robinson + Cleaver, a once celebrated Belfast department store. Up until the late 20th century, the city had several iconic Edwardian department stores, now all sadly gone. A competitor was Brand’s + Norman’s with its famous tearoom, The Tuesday Room. Black and white clad uniformed maids would serve coffee in individual filters along with bowls of sugared crystals, while middle aged models would sashay between the tables, parading the latest Louis Féraud rigouts from the ladies’ section. Lavender’s Blue insider Anne Davey Orr recalls Peter Brand telling her he got his ideas from visiting stores in London. Robinson + Cleaver’s famous marble staircase ended up in Ballyedmond Castle in County Down, which was rebuilt by Eddie Haughey later Baron Ballyedmond.

Lots of original features are retained at Abbeydene, restored and reinstated following its stint as a nursing home. The pair of enormous bow windows to the rear, perfect for watching ships cruise along Belfast Lough while breakfasting, have curved glass and elaborate pelmets. Egg and dart architraves, niches, arches, fireplaces and a carved staircase all add character. Five of the bedrooms are accessed off a spacious first floor sitting room lit by a tripartite window over the entrance portico. A further three are hidden under the eaves. Abbeydene is Merrythought Café meets country house.

Time for some channel hopping (sea not TV). The Westminster Property Association Annual Lunch took place, as usual, in The Great Room of Grosvenor House Hotel in Mayfair. Under the bulbous onion shaped chandeliers and billowing waves of acanthus leafed cornices, the hum of 1,500 people chatting rose to a roar by mid afternoon. This crescendo slid to diminuendo as the guest speaker got to her feet. The BBC’s Political Editor Laura Kuenssberg led the audience on an odyssey from Cameron to May. “’The grownups are back in the Cabinet,’ one senior diplomat told me.” Inevitably Trump came up but was trumped (sorry) by the arrival of the food:

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Categories
Architects Architecture Art Country Houses Design Fashion Hotels Luxury People Restaurants

The Violet Hour + Anne Davey Orr

The Violet Hour + Anne Davey Orr

Artist Anne Davey

First there was London’s hottest hotelier. Then there was Ireland’s most charitable chairman. Hot on their high heels comes the polymathic Anne Davey Orr. For once, Lavender’s Blue are lost for words. Maybe that’s what happens when we interview the suave former editor and publisher of the UK and Ireland’s longest running architectural publication. The Violet Hour, an unmissable annual event, this time round is one mega quote. Easy!

From the Hall of the Tree of Rarities © Anne Davey Orr

Anne was born in Downpatrick and spent her early childhood in Killyleagh, County Down, a town dominated by a fairytale castle built in 1180 and strategically located overlooking Strangford Lough to defend the town against the Vikings. It was adapted in the 1850s by the architect Sir Charles Lanyon. The castle has a colourful history which includes murder, a contested inheritance and a Judgement of Solomon. It’s now inhabited by the Rowan Hamilton family and is marketed as a self catering destination. Anne remembers going with her mother to the castle’s market garden to buy vegetables.

From the Mustard Seed Garden © Anne Davey Orr

Educated at the St Louis Grammar School, Kilkeel, County Down where she boarded for seven years while her family moved to County Louth, her fondest memory is of her teacher Sister Mary Gertrude who also mentored the famous singing trio The Priests. Anne completed a Craft Diploma at Belfast College of Art and a Diploma in Art at Edinburgh College of Art, now Heriot Watt University, where she specialised in sculpture. She was awarded a Postgraduate Scholarship and two Travelling Scholarships, one to France where she studied the work of Rodin, and one to Italy where she studied Marino Marini. During her postgraduate year she had a studio in Inverleith Place Lane, Edinburgh, and was surprised one evening to have a visit from a short dark man to enquire about her studio. It had been his he said. Only later did she find out she’d had a visit from the sculptor Eduardo Paolozzi. His mosaic at Tottenham Court Road Underground Station was partly removed to make way for Crossrail. The parts removed have found a new home in Edinburgh University

The Road to Maginella © Anne Davey Orr

While at Edinburgh she was elected President of the Sculpture and of the Drama Society whose former President was the playwright John Antrobus. She wrote and produced two plays one of which is now in the archive of the Traverse Theatre in the city. Anne’s interest in theatre stems from her association with  the legendary Mary O’Malley, founder of the Lyric Players Theatre Belfast, as a scene painter. In later years Anne was elected to chair the theatre’s board, setting in motion a review of its governance.

Vortex MIAL © Anne Davey Orr

This process led to the creation of the theatre’s new award winning building by O’Donnell + Tuomey Architects. Through Edinburgh Drama Society, Anne met the film director Peter Watkins and at his request marshalled a design team to work on his ground breaking BBC film Culloden shot in the Scottish Highlands. Peter then invited her to London to work on his film The War Game for BBC. Both films attracted considerable attention. Culloden, because it was an entirely new format for television drama and The War Game because it was considered too realistic to be broadcast at the time and was only shown in selected cinemas until comparatively recently. Subsequently Anne joined the BBC, initially training as a designer in London. She worked on high profile programmes such as Doctor Who and Top of the Pops. While at the BBC, she won Vogue Magazine’s Young Writer | Designer of the Year Award. Anne was subsequently sent to train as a producer, joining Arts Features. She was production assistant on the BBC2 film Rather Awake and Very Eager and worked with the producer Julien Jebb. She also directed the nationally broadcast Take It Or Leave It literary quiz which featured the writers John Betjeman, Anthony Burgess and Antonia Fraser among others.

Saatchi Triptych © Anne Davey Orr

Anne then moved to BBC Belfast to work in design and production. She initiated and directed a series called Where Are They Now? which revitalised interest in the careers of personalities that had been forgotten. Anne designed a series of schools programmes written by Seamus Heaney for the producer David Hammond. For a number of years Anne covered visual arts and theatre in Northern Ireland for The Guardian and Irish Times.

Anne took a sabbatical when her children Leon and Mary-Ann were born and moved to County Kilkenny with her husband the architect Harry Orr. There, she revived her art practice setting up Legan Castle Design Studio. She won an Irish Arts Council Travel Award to study traditional mosaic making in Ravenna’s Accademia di Belle Arti and exhibited during Kilkenny Arts Week. Her exhibition about The Troubles, titled Images of War, transferred to The Glencree  Centre for Reconciliation in Wicklow through the sponsorship of the journalist Kay Hingerty and the encouragement of the late Jack White, Head of Programmes at RTE, who opened the exhibition.

When Plan magazine needed a Northern Correspondent, Anne was approached. That association led to the publication of a brochure for the Festival of Architecture in Belfast for the Royal Society of Ulster Architects which subsequently evolved into the Ulster Architect magazine of which Anne was the founding editor. In the 1980s she purchased the magazine and set up a company to ensure that it would continue in publication. As publisher and editor of an architectural magazine she covered all the main building projects in the UK and Ireland with an eye to the visual arts and heritage projects. She personally interviewed high profile people including Max Clendinning, Edward Cullinan and Richard Rogers as well as covering stories throughout the UK and in Belgium, Canada, Germany, Holland, Italy and Norway. Her company was selected to take part in an entrepreneurial programme between University of Ulster and Boston College. Anne spent six months in the media department of a large advertising agency, Hill Holiday Connors Cosmopolous.

She completed an international publishing course at Stanford University, California, and is one of the founding editors of the art magazine Circa. Anne also published and edited the cross community Irish magazine Causeway as well as Scottish Arts Monthly. Anne also contributed to Building Design, Creative Camera and World Architecture. Somehow, sometime in between for six years she sat on the Historic Buildings Council, chaired the Visual Arts Committee of the Arts Council and chaired the Board of the Lyric Theatre. Other extramural activities included a nine year stint on the Regional Committee of the National Trust. She was a member of the judging panel for the Diljit Rana Bursary at the Department of Architecture, Queen’s University, where she tutored sixth year students on the presentation and marketing of their work. In 2004 Ulster Architect was taken over by a Dublin based company which Anne estimated had the resources to take the publication fully into the digital age. She stayed with the company during the handover period and then determined to return to what she had originally set out to do: paint.

What made her switch from painting to study sculpture, first in Belfast and then in Edinburgh – a move Anne made partially influenced by the stories brought back by her friend the painter J B Vallely – she doesn’t recall. Her period at Edinburgh College of Art was marked by considerable success. It was enhanced further when she was awarded a Royal Scottish Academy Best Student Award, a Postgraduate Scholarship and met her external examiner, the sculptor F E McWilliam. One of Ireland’s best galleries just outside Banbridge is named after him. In 2007 she completed a part time foundation course at the Southern Regional College in Newry which led to a 10 week Foundation Course at Slade School of Art in London, specialising in painting. From there she completed a BA Hons in painting at the University of Ulster gaining a First.

While completing her BA, Anne undertook a project for the European Movement in Northern Ireland which culminated in an exhibition of the national flowers of the nation states of the European Union. The subject was compatible with her coursework and increasing interest in aspects of landscape and landscape painting. The collection of 30 paintings was initially shown at the Harbour Commissioners’ Office, Belfast. Through the sponsorship of Speaker’s Office at Stormont and the Office of the European Commission in Belfast, the exhibition In the Garden of Europe transferred to the Great Hall in Stormont in 2014. It was the backdrop to a visit from the European Economic and Social Committee hosted by the Vice President Jane Morrice, formerly a founder of the Women’s Coalition Party. At Jane’s invitation the exhibition transferred to Brussels in 2015 with an accompanying monograph on the Language of Flowers written by Anne and illustrated with images of her paintings. It subsequently transferred to the offices of the Northern Ireland Executive in Brussels where it is on permanent display.

Anne Davey Orr Art © Anne Davey Orr

On completion of her BA in 2012 Anne moved to London to undertake a Masters in Fine Arts at the University of the Arts. In 2014 she was one of only two artists from Wimbledon College of Arts to have her work selected for the University’s Made in Arts London, an organisation which selects the best work from across the component colleges to promote throughout the capital. Three works were selected and exhibited at the Hampstead Art Fair in 2014. Anne has also exhibited at The Rag Factory, Brick Lane; the Norman Plastow Gallery, Wimbledon; the Image Gallery, Camden; and alongside artists such as Will Alsop, Philida Law and Greyson Perry at the Oxo Tower in London for The National Brain Appeal. Her work for The Rag Factory exhibition was site specific, responding to the factory’s history when it was used by Young British Artists Tracey Emin and Gary Hume as studios. Tongue in cheek, Anne produced a triptych in the form of a religious icon featuring Charles Saatchi, svengali of the YBAs, as a central Christ-like figure holding the catalogue for his Sensation exhibition in which their work was exhibited.  Highlighting his midas-like influence on their careers, Tracey Emin’s coat and Gary Hume’s shirt are depicted as monumental relics on either side of him. Images of two of her large paintings were selected for Volume X of International Contemporary Artists published in New York in 2015. Anne is currently working on a narrative portrait of the nurse Edith Cavell who was executed by the Nazis. To mark the 100th anniversary of her death, the painting will hang in the patients’ waiting room of the Edith Cavell Surgery in Streatham Hill.

Anne Davey Orr Artist Art © Anne Davey Orr

My Favourite London Hotel… Because I live in London I don’t often stay in hotels in the city but I did stay in the Tower Hotel at Tower Bridge when my daughter was married in London. It’s in a spectacular location with magnificent views of the bridge and the River Thames. Quite a few years ago I found The Manhattan Hotel in Covent Garden almost by accident. Named after Lord Louis Mountbatten, in the opulently relaxed colonial interior, you could almost transport yourself to India as it was when he was the last Viceroy. It’s now part of the Edwardian Hotels group so has probably changed somewhat since then.

Tower Bridge London © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Wapping London © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

My Favourite London Restaurant… I always take advice from my brother Damien and his wife Imelda when they come to London. They are both great foodies who keep me on my toes gastronomically. They lived in London before moving to France about 20 years ago but still visit regularly. So I don’t really have a favourite but I have had really good experiences with them at Brasserie Zédel in Piccadilly which is a slice of medium priced Paris in London, and Vinoteca, Beak Street, Soho. Great atmosphere in both and good value.

Brasserie Zédel London © David Loftus @ Lavender's Blue

My Favourite Local Restaurant… My favourite food is Middle Eastern so I like Beyrouths in Streatham Hill which serves simple Lebanese food, great mint tea and delicious homemade lemonade. For French food I found three courses recently at Côte Brasserie on Battersea Rise faultless. The subdued interior in muted green is cleverly lit to soften the glow over the clientele and again good value.

My Favourite Weekend Destination… It used to be Ragdale Hall Health Hydro and Thermal Spa in Melton Mowbray where I took my family one year for a total chillout divorced from the commercialism of Christmas. Now I think it is Kelly’s Hotel in Wexford, Ireland. Architecture as such has bypassed it in that it has grown like topsy over the years due to its popularity, particularly with families. Situated right on the beach on the Wexford coast, it has one of the best private art collections in Ireland, a selection from it hanging on the hotel’s walls: Hockney, Picasso, Miró, and good contemporary Irish art as well. Sculpture defines the surrounding gardens and the collection is catalogued in a book which can be purchased at reception. The labels of their own very good wine collection and the menus for their creative and wonderful food are designed by the artist Bill Corzier.

Rathmullan House Hotel Donegal Interior © Rathmullan House

My Favourite Holiday Destination … I have great memories of holidaying in Gozo, the neighbouring island to Malta in the Mediterranean. A stay at the wonderful Ta’ Cenc Hotel would be a real treat. A trip to La Colombe d’Or in Saint-Paul de Venice, one of the oldest medieval towns on the French Riviera near Nice, would be an alternative. Famed for its association with glitterati, Catherine Deneuve, Courtney Love and Meryl Streep have rented rooms there. It is a 16th century stone house which boasts a private collection of paintings by Braque, Matisse, Miró and Picasso. The artists paid for their lodgings by donating works. The town of Saint-Paul de Venice winds around the hilltop crammed with artists’ studios and little boutiques all under the brooding eye of Rodin’s Le Penseur at the top. Close by is The Foundation Maeght with its Miró Garden and superb galleries.

My Favourite Country House… While I am drawn to return to the Villa Saraceno, one of the mansions designed by Andrea Palladio near Vincenza in the Veneto in northeast Italy which inspires a deceptive sense of grandiose living, the less grandstanding Rathmullan House in County Donegal wins me over largely because of its location on a seemingly endless beach – blue flag and with spectacular views of the Fanad Peninsula. It was built in the 1760s and is a typical Georgian house of the period used as a bathing house by the Bishop of Derry. One of Ireland’s leading architects, Liam McCormick, designed a new pavilion extension in 1969 and the hotel has been extended several times since then. In spite of that it still feels like visiting someone’s home because many of the original features of the house have been retained and the staff are wonderfully friendly.

My Favourite Building… I have written about many buildings over the years for various publications so I have a number of favourites including Fallingwater by Frank Lloyd Wright near Pittsburgh Pennsylvania, and the buildings of the architect who most influenced him, Louis Henry Sullivan – an almost forgotten figure – known as the father of the skyscraper which he saw as very specific to America. Although seldom credited with it, he coined the phrase ‘form follows function’. Louis’ Transportation Building for the Chicago World Fair of 1893 is a wonderful expression of architecture on the cusp of change and the National Farmer’s Bank of Owatonna in Minnesota of 1908 has been described as the most beautiful bank in the world. Tragically his life ended in poverty and alcoholism. My favourite building by a living architect is Ted Cullinan’s Downland Gridshell, Weald and Downland Open Air Museum of 2002. It’s a wonderful organic expression of contemporary design using traditional techniques. Ted is founder of Cullinan Studio. I sat beside him at a dinner at Queen’s University when he talked about admiring the traditional blue barns he observed on his way in from the airport. A puzzled look fell over the surrounding faces. Was this part of our architectural heritage we had missed? Was it not a case someone asked of whatever paint fell off the back of a lorry at the time they were being painted. Like the time I was suggesting programme ideas to the BBC in Belfast. I’d noticed all houses on the Shankill Road were painted dark reds, browns and ochres but houses on the Falls Road seemed to favour more pastel colours such as light grey, pale blue and yellow. Was this evidence of a significant cultural difference we should be looking at? Someone asked me had I never noticed what colours the ships in Belfast docks were painted. Aha – no expression of social significance involved at all.

My Favourite Novel… A hard one for me because I read so much and have very catholic taste. Almost anything by Eric Newby but particularly Slowly Down the Ganges and Round Ireland in Low Gear. They are laugh-out-loud books as is another favourite called Skippy Dies by Dubliner Paul Murray, recommended to me by a Welsh rugby player at the Old Alleynians Rugby Club in Dulwich College where my son used to play rugby. I also like the works of Sebastian BarryOn Canaan’s Side and A Temporary Gentleman, and Colm Toibin’s The Testament of Mary, dramatized in 2014 by Deborah Warner and Fiona Shaw at The Barbican which is provocative, moving and beautifully written.

My Favourite Film… Another difficult choice because I have very schizophrenic taste in film. My favourites include Last Year in Marienbad by Alain Resnais, written by Alain Robbe-Grillet and starring Delphine Seyrig; Jules et Jim by Francois Truffaut starring Jeanne Moreau; Rocco and His Bothers by Luchino Visconti starring Alain Delon and Claudia Cardinale; Jean-Luc Godard’s Le Weekend and the surreal Un Chien Andalou by Louis Bunuel and Salvador Dalí. On the other hand I loved the broad sweep of Lawrence of Arabia with that wonderful score by Maurice Jarre. I have just seen Spotlight which I think is brilliantly made. Directed by Tom McCarthy, it is my favourite film of the moment.

My Favourite TV Series… They are all legal dramas, two are American and one is British. Suits was written by Arron Korsh. The Good Wife was created by Robert and Michelle King and BBC’s Silk created by Peter Moffat in which Maxine Pike steals the show.

My Favourite Actor… At the moment Aidan Turner but I also keep an eye on Gabriel Macht who plays Harvey Spector in Suits.

My Favourite Play… I thought it was going to be Hangmen by Martin McDonagh whose work I love. It is on at Wyndham’s Theatre at the moment, transferred from the Royal Court where it got rave reviews. But I didn’t find it as good as his other plays such as the Lieutenant of Inishmaan, The Beauty Queen of Leenan, and in particular Pillowman which I saw at the Cotteslow. So I have to say that my favourite at the moment is Red which I saw at the Donmar Warehouse starring Alfred Molina and Eddie Redmayne. It was brilliantly written by John Logan and brilliantly acted by Alfred Molina. To make a play about how Mark Rothko painted riveting was an incredible feat which Michael Grandage, the director, and John Logan pulled off with incredible brio.

My Favourite Opera… Mozart’s Magic Flute. I have loved Mozart since my school days when I did a study of Symphony No 41, better known as the Jupiter – his last. On a visit to Italy after the Venice Opera House had been burned down, a French opera troop presented a very modernistic version of The Flute in a specially constructed temporary theatre in Venice. Travelling by motor launch to this very French off-the-wall interpretation heightened the whole experience making it unforgettable. La Fenici was reconstructed “as it was, where it was,” as he said, to the designs of architect Aldo Rossi before he died.

My Favourite Artist… I have two: Peter Doig because he imbues his landscape paintings with a sense of ‘presence’. There is a feeling of ‘the hour before the dawn’, of menace and the unknown with an uncategorisable technique. My second favourite is the East German artist Anselm Kiefer. I went to his retrospective at the Royal Academy last year and was almost speechless at the breadth of his work. Mostly I admire him for how he stepped up to German history with all its connotations and for his continued experimentation with various forms of expression and media.

My Favourite London Shop… Cornelissen + Son, the artists’ supply shop on Great Russell Street. This is the sort of shop I could eat. I am like a child in a sweetie shop when I go in. Its list of famous customers is endless and includes Francis Bacon, Audrey Beardsley and Rex Whistler. It was here that I learnt that Francis Bacon preferred to paint on the wrong side of the canvas.

My Favourite Scent… Jo Malone at the moment but I have been a follower of Estée Lauder for years mainly because my mother used her fragrances.

My Favourite Fashion Designer… I like classic clothes and good tailoring so I have a soft spot for Jean Muir. I also like the simplicity of Armani. When I am in Donegal I call on Magee to have a look at their tweeds. My mother gave me a magnificent tailored coat in a beautiful mix of Donegal tweed which, unfortunately, I need to lose a few kilos to wear.

My Favourite Charity… I support The National Brain Appeal and was delighted that a watercolour I donated to an exhibition at the Oxo Tower last year sold in aid of the charity.

My Favourite Pastime… Definitely reading and – running almost neck and neck – drawing.

My Favourite Thing… At the moment my MacBook Air.

Anne Davey Orr Violet Hour @ Lavender's Blue