Orient Impress
In the Roaring Twenties, architect Sir Reginald Blomfield completed the part of John Nash’s masterplan for Regent Street adjoining Piccadilly Circus. Known as The Quadrant, the lower floors are punctuated by round arched windows set between rusticated piers. The ground floor rectangular portions of the windows serve shopfronts but the more observant passerby will note that a mezzanine level is lit by the half moon portions above. These lunette windows illuminate another world, far removed from the humdrum of shoppers and workers below. Walk under Sir Reginald’s Doric columned miniature boulevard in the sky, enter an elegant doorway on a side lane, ascend a winding flight of stairs, and beyond lies Senkai.
This is the most recent addition to the Ignite Group, the 1998 brainchild of entrepreneurs Matt Hermer and Paul Deeming. Ignite’s portfolio also includes Boujis private members’ club and Bumpkin bar and restaurant, both in South Kensington. And who did we recently see enjoying Marlborough Lights on the Old Brompton Road terrace of Bumpkin? Why, Prince Harry and his girlfriend Chelsy Davy! Opened in September 2011, Senkai is the latest Japanese themed restaurant to hit London’s West End. A DJ plays on Thursday and Saturday nights to attract a young hip crowd. Low ceilings, as mezzanines tend to have, accentuate the intimate clubby ambience.
Matt says, “Modern Japanese restaurants are a true trend in London. Through my travels, the Orient has been a great inspiration so it made sense as a next step for Ignite. We wanted to reduce the formality of Japanese restaurants with Senkai. We serve food in the lounge where a range of fabulous cocktails are mixed to complement the food.”
The long low dining room (125 covers) is punctuated at one end by a cocktail lounge (30 covers) and at the other by a circular marble raw seafood bar (20 covers). A mix of relaxing seating includes red banquettes, flower shaped stools by Pierre Paulin and Tosai lounge chairs made on the Japanese island of Hokkaido. Solid sycamore dining tables are by Benchmark. Bronze de Gournay hand painted wallpaper sets the scene. The ceiling is enlivened by illusory domes with subliminal lighting; Moooi Random LED floor lights throw patterns across the woven flooring. A 1961 floor light from Miguel Milá and a Tripode floor lamp from Santa and Cole add further interest. Interior design was by Christopher Prain, Head of Creative Design at Christopher Chanond, with lighting and furniture mostly supplied by Conran Contracts. Contrast and colour is the dual theme of the decoration and, as will be revealed, out the food. The Executive Chef is Tim Tolley, formerly of Plateau restaurant in Canary Wharf.
In keeping with Ignite Group’s policy on ethical food sourcing, at least three quarters of the fish on the menu is sourced from British day boats or organic farms. The remaining fish is sourced from sustainable worldwide suppliers including yellowtail kingfish from Australia and cobia from Vietnam. Game on the menu is a reminder this is England. edible works of art, polychromatic feasts for the eyes and mouth, arrive on simple white plates and bowls. Highlights from the Autumn Taster Menu include Chef’s Sashimi (yellowtail, salmon, sea bass, sea bream and scallops) and Curried Cabbage Gyoza (dumplings). Crab and Langoustine Ceviche (with mung bean noodles), a Toasted Day Boat (white fish tartare with sesame) and Cobia Umeboshi Samphire are other specialities. Warm dark Chocolate Fondant is served with colourful ice cream (green tea, cherry and vanilla flavoured) perched on a block of ice. Game on the menu (grouse, duck and quail) is a reminder that this Far East haven is in fact in England. The service is seamless and rather aesthetically pleasing. Some fine sommelier steering too.
Like the Roaring Twenties, Senkai revels in the social, artistic and multicultural dynamism of the English capital. Dance music may have replaced jazz and models dine here instead of flappers, but the mood behind Sir Reginald’s sober neoclassical façade is still chilled and decadent. The city has turned full circle. And that was how the review ended 13 years ago.
Alas Senkai didn’t make it to the New Roaring Twenties. Six months after our review, the restaurant went into liquidation. It’s strange as the Ignite Group were successful across a range of ventures, the interior was top notch, the food top quality and the service top drawer. The location, despite being a sushi roll’s throw from Piccadilly Circus is discreet (that side lane and mezzanine) but Hawksmoor steak restaurant has been doing well since November 2012 in the same place and space.
