Haute Cuisine
Luxury brands Aston Martin, Baccarat, Bentley, Clive Christian, Dunhill and Lalique have all held launches here. So we’re in good company. If it’s the chauffeur’s day off and you’re feeling like more than one tipple, Canary Wharf is well served by public transport (ignore Wallis Simpson’s diktat that anyone seen on public transport over the age of 30 is a social failure – she didn’t have to cope with the Capital’s standstill traffic). The fastest way to arrive at Plateau restaurant is by Docklands Light Railway from Bank Tube Station. Just a 15 minute journey; the best seats are in the front carriage with wraparound views thanks to fully automated driverless trains.
When staying at The Savoy, hop on the river bus which only takes eight minutes longer. You can take in all the riveting sites of the Thames along the way, sailing past London Bridge, St Katherine’s Dock and Surrey Quays. Upon arrival at Canary Wharf it’s a two minute walk past sharp edged architecture and sharp suited financiers to Canada Square. A dedicated lift (just like Le Jules Vernes restaurant in the Eiffel Tower) scoops you up a few levels to Plateau.
A dedicated lift isn’t the only thing the two restaurants have in common. Allan Pickett, Head Chef of Plateau, prepares modern French food albeit with a twist of British ingredients and European influences. Both restaurants have retro scifi interiors. Although Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea they ain’t: high rise views are what they enjoy (despite Plateau only being on the fourth floor it is the penthouse level of a block adjoining One Canada Square, the most iconic tower of Canary Wharf). Mammon’s metallic monoliths are cloaked in nature’s golden lighting as the sun sets.
The layout of Plateau optimises its panoramic setting. A long symmetrical sequence of spaces has continuous glass frontage on one side as well as overhead glazing. Taking prime position in the centre is the restaurant itself alongside a bar and brasserie. These are balanced on either side by tented terraces ideal for a post dinner cigar.
Going strong since 2003, Plateau continues to set a very high standard which makes competitors pale in comparison. Conran and Partners’ interior embraces modernity but with more than a hint of mid 20th century nostalgia. Eero Saarinen’s white tulip chairs could be straight off the Barbarella filmset and the cutlery is made to a 1957 design by David Mellor. Plateau is the place to be seen – and to see; a bit like an upmarket Rick’s Café in Casablanca.
Achille Castiglioni’s Arco lamp of 1952 placed at regular intervals provides flattering lighting as the sun disappears. The inspiration behind Conran’s muted colour scheme was the olive tree. Gentle tones of green, grey and brown create an oasis of calm away from the frenetic cityscape below. A shock of fuchsia contrasts with the marble tabletops. As darkness falls, the angular architecture outside is illuminated by blue neon lights. The atmosphere changes from subdued to electric.
Staff are attentive and very well informed without being intrusive. The Sommelier assures us that harmony with food and wine is his chief goal. He achieves it, seemingly effortlessly. Attention to detail is evident in the tablescape from rolled butter in silver foil to fishbone volutes. It’s good to see fresh towels in the loo rather than ghastly airport type hand dryers.
And then the food. Declining the foie gras amuse bouche, a delicious garden salad arrives instead. Each course is a highlight in itself. The food looks as good as it tastes. Scallops fitted snugly in a bowl have a freshness as if plucked from the Scottish seas that instant. Holy mackerel! The crab is divine. Accompanied by a shell razor clam, this is edible art and that’s before the pudding with its intricate design arrives. Or rather puddings for there are three to get through on the Gourmand Menu. Allan and his team excel from amuse bouche to petit fours, from mellifluousness to adventure. The restaurant at Plateau is haute cuisine at its best. The height of its location is matched by hight levels of service, food and wine. We’re here to serve platitude for Plateau puts the right sort of attitude into latitude.
That was fine dining, 2011. Plateau, once one of D and D Group’s most prominent establishments, closed in 2023. Allan Pickett left to become part of the opening team of The Standard Hotel and has held several high profile roles since then. There are plenty of other D and D restaurants still on the go from Bluebird Chelsea on King’s Road to German Gymnasium in King’s Cross. In 2024, the unit formerly occupied by Plateau is now Wahaca, a Mexican eatery. The floor below is part of the upmarket Japanese chain Roka. Reminiscing, what all was on that now historic Gourmand Menu? A lot!
Rosemary and tomato breads; Laurent-Perrier Champagne. Roast beetroot salad, creamed goat’s cheese, pea shoots; 2007 Chardonnay Gran Reserve, Nostros, Casablanca Valley, Chile. Gazpacho, cucumber and basil oil; 2009 Sauvignon Blanc, Mantel Blanco, Ruedo, Spain. Nage of Scottish sea scallops, vermouth velouté, soft herbs; 2008 Sancerre La Vigne Blanche, Henri Bourgeois, Loire Valley, France. South Devon crab ravioli, vine tomatoes, crab vinaigrette. Sauvignon Blanc, Domaine Ribante, Vins de Pays d’Oc, France. Seared fillet of seabream, aubergine caviar, slow cooked onions and peppers; Muscat de Riversaltes, Languedoc-Roussillon, France. Set bourbon vanilla cream, macerated strawberries, basil essence; Castelnau de Suduiraut, Suaternes, France. Warm bitter chocolate tart, kalamansi sorbet, Oreo cookie crumb; Cape Muscadel, de Wetshof Estate, Robertston, South Africa. Crème brûlée, elderflower sorbet, dehydrated raspberries. Macaroons, meringues, cookies, jellies.
